How to make a circular saw. Circular from the engine from the washing machine

The wood circular saw is a stationary equipment with a round saw blade. In addition to the longitudinal sawing machine, the term “circular saw” also includes a pendulum saw (miter saw), which is distinguished by the mobility of the saw blade fed to the fixed lumber.

Depending on the design of the unit, the following types can be distinguished into which the wood circular is divided:

  • Desktop type, suitable for home use. According to the name, it is placed on a table or on a workbench, has an average weight of 25 kg. After the production of work, the machine can be hidden. The maximum straight cut depth is 75 mm.
  • Stationary type. Used in medium and large production, the maximum cutting depth is 125 mm. With the help of a stationary type of circular, the most accurate and high-quality work is performed.
  • Circular saw with stand: it can be used to process long boards thanks to the folding stand. Folding legs allow you to transport the machine. The maximum cutting depth is 85 mm.

Additionally, types are distinguished by the location of the saw blade:

  • Horizontal sawing machines. The saw is parallel to the bed.
  • Vertical sawing machines. The cutting disc is located perpendicular to the frame, the saw can be of an open or semi-open type.
  • Angle type: two disks working at the same time are located at right angles to each other.

All listed types of equipment can be both professional and used for domestic use. The difference lies in the power of the machines, the number of fixtures and additional options.

Wood circular design

Wood circular design

Industrial and household circular machines have a basic package. It consists of the following elements:

  1. Bed.

The main part of the circular machine, to which all other parts of the equipment are attached. The bed is usually made of cast iron or strong steel to ensure stability and lack of vibration during operation, so as not to complicate the process. If the bed is made of wood, it must be fastened with stiffeners

  1. Working surface.

The table for placing the sawn material is a work surface. As a rule, its upper part is made of metal or cast iron, on the surface there are guides and rulers for measuring lumber and ease of installation. The part of the working surface where the saw blade is located is usually removable - this creates convenience when replacing it. The slot for the saw must match the thickness of the blade, otherwise, with a larger size, the slot will constantly become clogged with chips and sawdust.

  1. Sawing disc

The thickness of the processed wood depends on the diameter of the circular saw blade, the wood machine. The disk must be installed in such a way that no more than 1/3 of its diameter protrudes above the working surface.

  1. Protective cover.

Professional equipment is usually equipped with a guard to protect the operator from contact with the saw blade, as well as to hold down the lumber.

  1. Cleaving knife.

This element is installed in order to simplify the sawing process, especially when processing improperly dried or knotty wood, which can cause the saw blade to jam. The riving knife is installed behind the saw blade relative to its working stroke.

  1. Longitudinal stop.

This element serves as a guide for straight sawing of lumber. The longitudinal stop must be made of a rigid material and not move during operation, so it is fixed in at least two places.

  1. Drive unit

The drive consists of a motor and a shaft on which the saw blade is put on. For high-quality processing of lumber, a two-phase or three-phase motor with a power of 1200-1500 W is required. The shaft for fastening the saw must be sized to match the inner diameter of the blade and ensure its tight and reliable fastening.

Do-it-yourself home-made circulars on wood, photo

Home-made circulars, if properly assembled, can perform high-quality sawing of material and have a service life that is not inferior to factory models.


DIY wood circular

To assemble a homemade machine model, you will need the following materials and tools:

  1. A metal sheet
  2. Plywood
  3. Bar with a section of 50x50 mm
  4. Board 50x100 mm
  5. steel corner
  6. Clamps
  7. Screwdriver, electric drill
  8. Measuring tools
  9. Hacksaw or jigsaw

A homemade circular must meet the following requirements:

  • The capital rigidity and stability of the structure, on which the safety indicators of the equipment depend.
  • Flat work surface
  • Machine grounding
  • Free space for sawdust
  • Free access to wood waste for their elimination
  • The presence of a protective casing over a rotating disk.

When choosing a saw, one should take into account the requirements for high-quality and safe work: reliable fastening of the disc, fencing off the working part of the saw, as well as the presence of a start and stop button for the sawing unit.

Do-it-yourself wood circular can be assembled from an ordinary grinder, or an angle grinder. The basis for a homemade machine can also be a hand circular saw or an electric drill. Before assembling a homemade model, it is necessary to think over its design, calculate the load to which it will be subjected.

To begin with, a stable bed or workbench is made. A home circular model does not always need a metal welded structure, since it is not subjected to such loads as powerful industrial equipment. If the rotational speed of the saw during operation does not exceed 4500 rpm, the workbench can be made of wood.

The dimensions of the bed are calculated based on the main parameters of the equipment, in particular, the dimensions of the saw. At this stage, it is necessary to determine the power of the saw blade. As a rule, do-it-yourself home-made wood circulars for home use are made using a saw with a power of no more than 850 watts. But for building a house, it is required to process a much larger volume of lumber, respectively, the power parameters of the saw will be different. At the same time, experts do not recommend installing a saw with a power of more than 1250 watts, because. this would be unjustified costly and risky in terms of equipment safety.

It is necessary to provide in the frame the ability to lower and raise the disk, as well as the location of the equipment control panel. When placing the control buttons, it is necessary to take into account their safe location relative to the cutting disc - this can be the outside of the machine or a rising tabletop.

For the manufacture of the working surface, you can use a metal sheet, plywood or chipboard.

An obligatory element of a home-made machine are guides for accurate and even sawing of wood. The design of the guides is made of a welded steel corner, and is attached to the table top with clamps. It is not desirable to fix the guides rigidly in order to be able to change their position in the future.

On the underside of the tabletop, an area for a slot for a saw and fixing fasteners is outlined. The tabletop legs are made of timber, the height of the supports is selected individually for the convenience of work. Additional stability to the workbench will be given by fastening the legs with steel corners and tightening the supports with diagonal rails.

The table cover can be lined for ease of cutting or attach a guide ruler to the tabletop.

An angle grinder or hand-held circular saw is attached to the bottom of the workbench so that the circular saw comes to the surface through the slot. It is necessary to check the angle of inclination of the saw: it should be 90 degrees.

Fastening of all structural elements is carried out using self-tapping screws.

Such home-made circulars for wood are capable of processing wood up to 4 mm thick, as well as sheets of chipboard, fiberboard, plywood. The advantage of home-made machines is the choice of their dimensions, power, performance, depending on the desired qualities.

A circular saw is an important and necessary tool for many people, allowing them to independently engage in numerous types of housework. It has a fairly high cost, so many people think about how to make it on their own. To do this, you need to prepare a workbench or table of the optimal size that replaces this tool, and you also need to have the ability to work with metal. During the process, you should be careful and careful so as not to harm yourself, as well as to get the perfect result of the work.

Do-it-yourself circular is made using the following components:

  • rectangular profile pipe;
  • corners formed from steel;
  • engine.

How to make a hand saw from a grinder?

A home-made circular saw from a circular saw with your own hands is considered quite popular. Most often, a grinder is used for this work. To do this, only some changes are made with a ready-made tool, which is equipped with a special sliding stop, and an axial handle is also installed.

All work on the independent creation of a circular saw from a grinder consists of the following steps:

  • A sliding stop is created on the tool, represented by two corners of small dimensions made of metal. They are installed on both sides of the main working body of the tool, represented by a disc with different teeth, used instead of a standard abrasive wheel. At the same time, a gap of 4 mm is left on each side.
  • So that the installed corners do not cling to the part being processed during the use of the finished saw, they must be slightly rounded from below. Front and rear, they are connected by special cross-links, for which standard fasteners are used - bolts and nuts.
  • A special collar is attached to the angle grinder itself, made of a tape formed from metal. At the same time, its screw tie should be at the bottom of the tool. A strip of tin is fixed to this clamp, folded in half in advance, and it can be replaced with galvanized. This element must have a special hole designed to fix the rear bolt of the sliding stop.
  • Identical gaps are created between the stop of the future circular saw and its working body.
  • In the gearbox housing, which is an important element of the grinder, from 2 to 4 threaded holes are created. They are designed to use small bolts. For this work, the gearbox is initially disassembled in order to determine exactly where it is possible to create holes in its body with a drill. It is with their help that the axial handle is fixed, which can be bought ready-made or made on your own.
  • If it is supposed to perform the axial handle on its own, then a metal tube is used for this, and a metal bar can also be used, which has an unusual curved shape. In the created handle, as well as in the gearbox housing, holes for fastening are formed, after which the fixation itself is realized.
  • Next, an adjusting rod is created, for which a small piece of a steel bar is usually used, and its thickness is usually 5 mm. One end of this segment is bent, resulting in a loop. A hole is created for the front stop bolt. Washers are selected on the front of the stop, which will allow you to get a uniform and optimal gap in width. On the other side of the rod, a thread is formed that enters the hole on the saw handle. To do this, a nut is screwed onto this hole in advance, and as soon as the assembly is completed, the second nut is also screwed on. With these nuts, which are easy to tighten or loosen, the optimal and desired depth of cut is ensured.

Thus, the process of creating a manual circular stove is considered quite simple. Here you do not need to use expensive tools and materials, and all work is easily implemented on your own.

How to make a desktop circulation stove?

You can even make a circular table with your own hands with drawings that are formed in advance, and are also high quality and correct. With their help, you can get a design that has high quality, safety of use and efficiency.

A full-fledged circular saw, formed on its own, is represented by a serious, complex and unusual design, which is created only with preliminary consideration of all its elements, study of drawings and preparation of materials and tools.

It is important to decide whether the circular will be stationary or desktop, and the choice depends on how often the tool will be used, as well as what scale of work is supposed to be implemented with it.

The design of a standard circular saw





"Real" stationary circular

A do-it-yourself circular table, the drawings of which are freely available, is created easily and quickly if you know its design well. If all the components are separately formed and prepared, the result is that they are simply securely and firmly connected to each other, ensuring an optimal design.

The main elements of this equipment include:

  • Table. Usually it is covered with a sheet made of galvanized steel or tin. It is not allowed to use plastic or wood for these purposes, since these materials will not be able to withstand the significant impact of other materials, therefore they will be rubbed, resulting in deformations, bends and holes.
  • Cross links. They are created for the table, and usually a steel corner is used for these purposes, the thickness of which is approximately 7 cm. These connections are equipped with a shelf attached to the outside in a horizontal position. In this case, the ease of forming the side limiter is ensured.
  • The working body of the circular saw. It is represented by a toothed disc that protrudes beyond the table, as this provides a good sawing process for various elements.
  • Motor equipment, which must be powerful enough. Its choice depends on the diameter of the saw. If it is supposed to work with lumber, the thickness of which exceeds 15 cm, then a very powerful motor is selected, therefore the process of creating a circular will be quite difficult, since it is difficult to find this element in the public domain.
  • Side stop. It is made adjustable, and an even piece of steel corner is used to create it, the thickness of which is approximately 7 cm. This stop in length should be approximately 35 cm longer than the length of the table. One vertical shelf on each side is cut off, so it turns out to be equal to the length of the table . The tails, which are flat, curve down. Holes for threading are formed in their lower shelves. The emphasis is attached to the table with bolts, and it is set exactly according to the template.
  • Shaft. It is an important piece of equipment, and it is desirable to purchase it in finished form so that it has high quality and reliability. Usually, the finished element has a special seat designed for the future saw blade.
  • Bearings. They can be different, but self-aligning elements that are ball-shaped are considered the best choice. They are equipped with a double row of special balls. Inside the clip in the section is curvilinear. If you use cheap and low-quality bearings in a homemade circular, they will not last too long. The trunnions are equipped with covers that prevent sawdust from entering the bearings.
  • Saw transfer. A V-belt design is usually chosen, since if a gear is chosen, it is considered dangerous enough for amateur use. This is due to the fact that if lumber is used that has previously been used for other purposes, then a nail or other fastener may get caught in it, which, when it enters the gear, can cause the engine disk to simply fly apart.
  • Ratio. It is selected depending on the parameters of the engine, namely on its revolutions and on the frequency of rotation of the disk.
  • Engine. It is best to choose an asynchronous motor that is single-phase. Typically, standard washing machines are equipped with such elements. They are ideal for a homemade circular saw. It is not advisable to use collector motors, which are usually installed in various electrical appliances, since they give extremely significant speeds, and also cannot run for too long, which is considered important for a circular.
  • A three-phase motor is often used, but it is complemented by a starting and running capacitor, which are equipped with fittings. They have a significant value, and they must be either oil-paper or just paper.
  • An engine starting circuit that can be used for a delta or a star, and it should not need additional refinement.

Thus, the process of creating a circular saw on your own is considered quite complicated, but if you know what basic elements the equipment consists of, as well as choose high-quality elements that are reliably and safely connected to each other, then the work will be done correctly on your own.

Read this article on the blog - be careful in experiments and working with sharp tools. Write reviews and share tips on working with saws and circular saws that you made yourself.



An emphasis for longitudinal sawing.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. The cast may crack.

There is another popular way to fix the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - attach it with clamps that fix the base by pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not true enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter of a manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you saw without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.


The disc has been sawn to the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The depth of cut is set on the circular saw itself. It is convenient that the disk can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disk is under an imperceptible slope. And all cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disc is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native site. If the disk is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving the ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that fasten the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now turn on with the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to cut without equipment using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This design, clinging to the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the rail against the sled, you can easily cut it exactly at 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut the rail like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.

Slides solve only part of the problems. For longitudinal sawing, a side stop is also needed.

I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

Clings to the edges with a death grip.

The circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of a furniture board.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawed and slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to perform all these works than I did when sawing off with a manual circular saw.

In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing, so that when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I drink, the disc throws wood dust right in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already begun to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

Many summer residents and owners of private houses were faced with the need to process and saw boards, plywood and other lumber. For such work, you will need a circular, which is not difficult to perform from improvised means. Such home-made equipment will not be inferior to the purchased one in functionality and workmanship, allowing you to save several tens of thousands of rubles on the purchase of ready-made units.

Equipment Description

DIY circular saws can be stationary or portable. The design of the simplest circular will include a metal or wooden carrier frame, inside which an electric motor, an electricity supply control unit, a table top and the working saw itself are fixed, which is mounted on the circular shaft or installed through gears and a trunnion mechanism. The saw is located in a slot in the tabletop, which makes it easy to cut lumber, performing high-quality wood processing.

The table-top can be made of lumber or use ready-made metal blanks for this. Flat easel tables are made of wood, from above, such a countertop will need to be covered with a durable metal sheet. Otherwise, without metal protection, the tree will begin to wear out quickly, and the equipment will last for several years during active operation, after which complex and expensive repairs will be required.

First of all, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you need to cut boards or firewood for the winter, then the simplest installation from a sturdy table with a slot for the disk will suffice.

Some models imply the presence of an additional shaft to which knives, jointers and planers are attached. Such universal machines are equipped with powerful electric motors, which allows you to perform a wide range of woodworking jobs. When manufacturing a multifunctional machine, it is necessary to be guided by high-quality drawings that will allow you to make versatile and reliable equipment.

If you want to perform various kinds of carpentry work, then equip the coordinate table with guides. The existing limiters and guides can be fixed at different angles, which allows not only to ensure the safety of work on the machine, but also to perform high-quality wood processing, easily changing discs for saws of various diameters.

Advantages of homemade technology

Homemade circulars are very popular due to the simplicity of their manufacture, durability and reliability. Today, many summer residents use home-made units, and do not buy expensive equipment in specialized stores.

The main advantages of this technique include the following:

  • Tool versatility.
  • The simplicity of its manufacture.
  • Potential for significant savings.
  • Reliability and durability of equipment.

Available on the Internet and thematic printed publications, the schemes for the execution of stationary and mobile circulars make it possible to manufacture equipment for processing both thin workpieces and thick lumber. You can pick up the simplest options that do an excellent job of processing lining, thin lamellas and plywood.

Characteristics and power

It is from the correct choice of parameters, including indicators of revolutions and drive power, that the functionality of the use of equipment will depend. The power rating is affected by the maximum allowable sawtooth diameter. It is believed that processing lumber with a thickness of about 10 millimeters will require an electric motor with a power of 1 kW. Based on the thickness of the processed and sawn lumber, you should choose the power of the electric motor.

The transmission from the drive in a self-made circular is best done with a V-belt. This allows you to ensure the necessary safety of the use of equipment. V-belt transmission when foreign objects get under the saw will slip on the pulleys, which eliminates injuries and jamming of the working disk.

Making a circular

Before proceeding directly to the manufacture of a circular machine, it is necessary to think over its device and design, and ideally, select a drawing scheme, according to which all work will be carried out in the future. When planning the manufacture of the bed, it must be remembered that such a design must be stable and reliable. For production powerful saws, the base is made of reinforced welded metal structures. For household models, you can use wooden blocks with plywood for the bed or weld the base from a metal corner.

The choice of the electric motor used will depend on what kind of work and what kind of wood is planned to be processed on the machine. The drive can be powered by a single-phase electrical network or powerful industrial motors are used that operate from a three-phase electrical network.

You can make a powerful and easy-to-use circular from the motor from the washing machine. It won't be too difficult. Such motors are compact in size, operate from a single-phase network with a voltage of 220 volts, are reliable and capable of operating at high speeds.

One of the most important components of the electric saw is the shaft on which the working saw is attached. You can use a ready-made shaft from similar equipment or make it on a milling cutter from round timber. The shaft is machined on a lathe, checking for perfect centering. Even the minimum runout of the shaft is not allowed, since subsequently it will be impossible and unsafe to work on such an incorrectly centered circular machine. On the shaft, seats for pulleys and a circular saw should be made.

The saw blade should rise above the surface of the worktop by a maximum of a third of its diameter. Otherwise, with a larger saw height, it will be difficult to process wood, and working on such a machine will become simply dangerous. If it is necessary to work with a bar, the diameter of the saw blade will be approximately 350 millimeters. For processing boards, you should choose small discs, the diameter of which is 250-300 millimeters. The quality of the saw blades used must be given due attention, since in the future the minicircular will have a significant load, low-quality discs will quickly become dull and will require replacement.

Materials and tools

Making a circular machine with your own hands will not be particularly difficult. For this work, you will need the following materials and tools:

In each case, the design of the circular will be different, so it is necessary to choose certain components, which will make it possible to produce functional and reliable equipment. When using lumber for the manufacture of the base and desktop, the wood will need to be coated with impregnations that protect the material from rotting and moisture.

Step by step assembly

You can make a stationary circular saw with your own hands from a grinder and a hand cutter without making any changes to the design of the working tool. The base is made of lumber, which greatly simplifies manufacturing, eliminating the need to use complex welding equipment. Step-by-step instruction:

This option for manufacturing a circular saw will be an excellent choice if you need a tool for cutting boards up to 3 centimeters thick. If you want to make a powerful and multifunctional device for the home, then use electric motors with a power of 5 kW or more, which allow you to process and saw boards with a thickness of 5-8 centimeters.

Making a homemade circular saw is not particularly difficult. You can use grinders or hand saws that are mounted inside the wooden base of the machine.

Some craftsmen make more complex tools that involve the use of powerful electric motors, V-belts and larger diameter saw blades. If there are any difficulties on the network, you can find thematic videos on how to make a circular with your own hands.

A circular saw is required in private households quite often, but it is not at all necessary to buy an expensive tool for this. You can make a circular saw with your own hands from improvised means.

Basic materials and tools

To create a circular saw, you will need materials:

  • pipe (45 mm);
  • channel;
  • corner "4" and "6";
  • boards 30 mm wide;
  • metal sheet up to 8 mm thick.

Of the nodes you will need:

  • engine;
  • bearings.

In the work you can not do without tools and materials:

  • jigsaw;
  • impeller;
  • screwdriver;
  • screwdriver;
  • Scotch;
  • hammer;
  • wire cutters;
  • pliers;
  • tape measure and triangle-ruler.

How to do it yourself?

A circular electric saw for wood can be made with your own hands from various devices. There is an important condition: you should have the skills to work with metal.

From Bulgarian

It is not difficult to make a home-made stationary circular saw at home. First of all, you should decide on the project, draw a diagram and make a drawing. The differences between stationary and desktop homemade circular saws are the height of the base. Before assembling the tool, you should think about creating a "table". It is usually made of wood (board thickness - 3 cm) and covered with tin or aluminum sheet. Also for these purposes, a steel sheet up to 6 mm thick can be suitable. Crossbars are made from a corner (up to 80 mm).

The working disk protrudes beyond the table, usually by 35%, that is, for a beam with a thickness of 120 mm, the diameter of the disk should be 370 mm, respectively. The power plant will need 1000 watts (possibly more). If the blanks are more massive, then a home-made circular may not “take” them. The emphasis is created from the “8” corner - this is a fairly massive and durable structure that can withstand quite significant loads. The emphasis extends beyond the boundaries of the table by 4-5 cm. One shelf is processed on both sides, the remainder in this case should be equal to the length of the table.

A very important node is the shaft - it is best to take it ready-made. If you have the skills to work on a lathe, then turning such a part is not very difficult. You will need to buy bearings with protection. The pulley is better to put V-belt. As an engine, a power plant from a refrigerator or washing machine may be suitable. Capacitors are usually installed in oil-paper.

After it was possible to assemble the machine from improvised means, it should be tested without any loads. All elements must "get used" to each other in order to work in a single complex. During testing, some flaws may appear, they will need to be eliminated. For a homemade circular, the engine from a washing machine can be ideal.

Such power plants operate from a 220 volt network, they have good efficiency and an acceptable rotation ratio. If you install a three-phase engine (it is powered by 380 volts), you will have to buy additional capacitors to reformat the unit to 220 volts. Sometimes they use units with a gasoline engine - such power plants have good efficiency, are unpretentious during operation.

The most important element in a homemade unit is the shaft. It can be carved independently from a metal ingot. It is not difficult to make such an element on a lathe. At the same time, it is important to observe the centering of the part, so that then there is no unnecessary vibration of the mechanism. Special grooves are machined on the shaft, where the saw blade and pulleys will be attached. Sometimes recesses are also machined for attaching knives. The size of the saw blade itself is directly related to the power of the engine. The diameter should be 3.5 times the thickness of the product. There are also verified calculations: for 110 mm of material thickness, an engine power of 1 kW will be required.

Craftsmen often make a circular saw along with a jointer on the same base. Both tools in this case can work from the same engine. The jointer is able to clean the wooden surface to a mirror finish, its presence in combination with a circular saw is more than appropriate.

From a hand saw

It is also easy to assemble a circular saw from a hand saw. The sliding stop can be made from corners that are mounted on both sides of the rotating element (disk with teeth). The width of the slot is usually up to 5 millimeters. All edges must be processed so that they are slightly rounded. All corners are made with crossbars, which should firmly bind them. Bolts with nuts can be used as fasteners.

A metal clamp should be attached to the body. The screw tie is mounted at the bottom of the unit. The collar (thickness up to 2 mm) in conjunction with the rear rack is a single unit that can withstand significant loads. The stop is fixed in the back of the unit. The washers that create the gap can be moved by adjusting the size of the slot between the disc and the stop sides.

It is best to do the transmission with linorems - if a foreign object gets in, then when jammed, such pulleys will slip, which eliminates the possibility of injury. A pulley with large dimensions is placed on the engine, a pulley with a smaller diameter is placed on the shaft for the circular - in this ratio, the optimal number of revolutions is achieved.

From a chainsaw

To make a circular saw from a chainsaw, you will need a metal canopy that will be mounted to the saw body. The engine is already available, so making the unit will not be very difficult. You will also need two channels with dimensions of 185x8000 mm. You will also need corners (55 x 100 mm) and two trimming rails that turn their soles up. Holes of 16 mm are drilled at the base of the sawmill, there should be a distance of one meter between them.

Ties are made from a pipe (length - 255 mm). The structure is fastened with bolts. Racks are made separately, the sawmill body will be attached to them. It is important to ensure that all elements do not have deformation. The distance between the racks should be no more than one meter. Then the sawmill is equipped with a movable carriage. It is made of a steel sheet 620x55 mm, corners are welded to the metal from below. Small bearings are mounted on the trolley. Two corners should also be welded at the top, a chainsaw is attached to them. Then a holder is made, which will work as a latch for a beam or log.

You will need a pipe with a diameter of 45 mm. To work, you will need a hose that will be mounted at a given height, which should not be greater than the length of the pipe itself. This is how a sawmill is made. It is possible to process on such a unit a bar or a log of any section.

From a drill

The drill is a versatile tool from which you can make such units:

  • drilling mini-unit;
  • lathe;
  • mower;
  • turbine.

Locksmiths in the service station even make winches from drills to lift quite bulky loads. The drill is also actively used in construction, in particular in painting work. Farmers often use a drill to install seedlings into the ground. The circular from the drill will be compact. To create a tool, you will need the following elements:

  • bases from a board 2-3 cm thick;
  • vertical supports;
  • shaft on which the disk is mounted;
  • electric drive in the form of a drill.

Instead of a board, you can also use chipboard sheets with a thickness of at least 30 millimeters. On such material, a rectangle measuring 310x255 mm should be cut. Also for the desktop you will need a duralumin sheet 5 mm thick. Such a material is good in that it has an acceptable stiffness coefficient and at the same time low weight. A hole measuring 165x12 mm is cut in the place marked with a marker.

The fasteners of the drill itself can also be made by hand. A saw shaft assembly can be easily found on any construction market. During operation, a lot of dust will occur, so you should look for a bearing with protection - this will significantly prolong the service life. A circular saw from a drill is assembled according to a standard algorithm:

  • all the main parts are attached to the base;
  • then the table is mounted;
  • the drill is connected, test tests are made.

The equipment requires compliance with safety regulations:

  • the place of work should be cleared;
  • the workpiece should work smoothly, without any delay;
  • the machine must be equipped with a protective screen;
  • garbage should not accumulate on the machine, it should be removed in time;
  • it is necessary to do a preventive inspection of the unit, to lubricate it.

Such a mechanical device makes it possible to process not only wooden products. If you put good cutters, then you can work with non-ferrous metals, PVC, chipboard, bars.

Homemade fixtures

It is not so difficult to make a circular saw, problems can arise when fitting knots. Choosing the right elements so that they work flawlessly is an important task. The shaft must have self-adjusting bearings if the unit is used daily. The bearings themselves are best selected with two rows of balls that will be adjusted with a clamping nut.

The work surface must necessarily have a "grid"-markup. Without this coordinate system, accurate woodworking is quite difficult. Do not neglect the protective cover - during operation, it reliably protects the device from mechanical damage. A circular saw operates in different modes when working with different materials, so it is desirable to have a device that controls such a process. Several grooves should be made on the shaft so that it is possible to rearrange the pulleys, thus changing the speed.

Parallel stop - a necessary device for working with overall workpieces. You can make them yourself from plywood, boards or chipboard. The stop value usually does not exceed 25 mm. The stop is fastened with self-tapping screws or bolts.

When you have to cut bars or make several cuts from different directions, you need an emphasis that has a “P” configuration. At its base lies a board 30 mm thick. Sidewalls 12 mm thick are screwed to the base. Thus, the stop is installed on a beam, the size of which from the point of the cut corresponds to the size to the cutting disc. From two sides, it is pressed against the beam with clamps. If the beam is too massive, then it is rearranged and another cut is made.

There is also an edge stop, which is in demand. To make it, it takes a lot of time and a good qualification of the master. Be sure to make a drawing diagram before starting work. This emphasis is made of plywood (20 mm), and the thrust bar is also made of this material. Production phases:

  • longitudinal grooves for dowels are cut;
  • dowels are mounted on a thrust bar;
  • between the grooves made, another groove is cut to secure the thrust bar;
  • another hole is made at the base, its size corresponds to the saw cutter of the circular saw;

Sidewalls-limiters are mounted, and there must be clamps in order to securely fix it. To put emphasis on the workpiece, the bar moves in the grooves and is fixed through the slot with clamps. It is best to immediately fix the ruler or tape measure on the bed - this makes the job much easier. The pusher is convenient for working with small workpieces - it allows you to fix the part on both sides, which ensures accuracy in work. It is also important to do:

  • elevator;
  • wedging knife;
  • lifting mechanism.

If a three-phase engine (380 volts) is placed on the machine, then capacitors that can withstand a minimum voltage of 620 volts will certainly be required. These devices may be paper-based.

Capacitors are calculated according to the following scheme: 1000 watts account for 100 microfarads for a working type capacitor. The capacity of the starting capacitor must be ordered twice as large. It should be remembered that the SB starting block is a device that automatically returns to its original position. This is very convenient, because literally in a matter of seconds after the start, you can start the workflow.

  • you can not work with wood in which there are metal fragments (nails, self-tapping screws, etc.);
  • material marking is possible only if there are special clamps or substrates (this is especially true for long boards and timber);
  • boards and timber from two meters long must be handled by two people;
  • when working with the disc, no sudden movements or shocks should be used, otherwise the device may jam, it may break;
  • if the material has dimensions from 42 cm, then it is recommended to use a special pusher;
  • if the wood is heterogeneous (there are branches and knots), then it must be dissolved before work;
  • gloves should always be used: both during operation and when cleaning the unit;
  • do not accumulate wood waste on the machine - this may cause a fire or a short circuit.

The machine must not be operated under the following circumstances:

  • no guide rail;
  • no casing;
  • too wide gap (from 10 mm);
  • there are no fuses (wedging cutter, holding fingers) that protect the worker from a broken workpiece;
  • the height of the riving knife exceeds the height of the saw blade (from 6 mm), the distance of its installation (17-110 mm).

The machine must have a chip collector. Be sure to wear protective goggles while working. When changing elements on the machine, it must be de-energized.

How to make a circular saw with your own hands, see the following video.