How to grow delicious and sweet watermelons outdoors? The subtleties of caring for gourds: we grow watermelon in the open field. Melon on the site: we grow melons and watermelons Technology for growing watermelon

Watermelon and melon are associated with the taste of summer, and every gardener dreams of growing delicious fruits on his plot. Watermelon has long been used as a healing diuretic to cleanse the body. Melons are thermophilic and grow in a warm climate, so for their cultivation and planting watermelons in the open field, you need to have special knowledge.

Be sure to find out in advance whether it is possible to plant gourds if a cucumber, pepper, pumpkin or zucchini grows nearby.

Is it possible to plant watermelons and melons side by side?

Melons belong to the gourd family. Cultures are very useful and contain a huge amount of vitamins. If you learn how to properly grow these plants, you can get a high yield of delicious fruits.

Melon is quite suitable for "neighborhood" with watermelon. Plants tend to grow. It is not recommended to plant them too close together..

Melons are prone to infection with various identical diseases. Therefore, if you plant nearby, you need to understand the risks of spreading diseases from one culture to another.

And melons and watermelons tend to run wild

Proper sowing of seeds for seedlings at home

Seeds for seedlings are planted approximately 60 days before planting in open ground. So, already in mid-March, the seeds should be bought. You can buy them at any specialized store or ask those who have already managed to grow a quality crop of watermelons and melons.

It is impossible to get a good harvest from the seeds of last year's watermelon. The best seeds to plant - 5 years ago. It is important to understand that only any early-ripening varieties with a ripening period of up to 70-85 days are suitable for our climate. It is better to give preference to hybrid varieties that are more adapted to adverse conditions.

When preparing seeds, you need to make sure that they are not empty. To do this, seeds are immersed in a container with water, Anything that comes up can be safely thrown away.. Watermelon seeds germinate more slowly than melon seeds. Therefore, it is recommended to scald watermelon seeds with boiling water, for better germination, and only then sow.

Preparation for planting and soaking

Soak. Each individual type of seed must be wrapped and soaked in cloth rags and maintain in a humid environment until germination. You can also soak in special napkins.
If the seeds have already hatched, but there is no way to plant them in a timely manner, you can leave the seeds in the refrigerator.

Seeds germinated at home are planted in separate small pots with a diameter of 10 cm, preferably peat. The soil should be a mixture of: humus, sod land 3:1, add peat, sawdust, humus 3:1:0.5.

planted in each pot 2 seeds to the depth 5 cm. Moisten the soil with a sprayer. Cover the container with cling film on top and put in a warm place +25 degrees.

It will take 40-45 days to grow watermelon seedlings, and 30 days for melon.

It will take about 40 days to grow watermelon seedlings.

when the seeds germinate, move them to sunlight at a temperature +22 degrees. Remove the film;
the best place for seedlings is the windowsill on the south side of the house;
a week after sowing, feed the seedlings with mineral fertilizers, and a week later - infusion of mullein with superphosphate.

Landing in open ground

When planting in open ground, you need to focus on climatic conditions, the selected crop variety, and the readiness of seedlings.

Soil selection

Before planting melons in open ground, you need to choose a place for planting. Exotic plants love sunny places where there is no shade and wind.

Melons love nutrient soil and sunny plots of land

Melons and watermelons need rich soils, as well as those that can withstand moisture well. The ideal option is sandy and sandy loamy soil with a pH of 6-7 units.

Site preparation is carried out in the fall. When digging, they add 4-5 kg of manure per square meter, 40 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium salt. and ammonium sulfate.

Preparing seedlings of watermelons

When the seedlings appear 5-7 leaves, it is ready for transplanting into open ground. Best time - the end of May. However, you need to focus on weather conditions so that at night the air temperature remains +15 degrees.

A week before planting in open ground, seedlings must be taken out for hardening at a daily temperature of + 16 + 20 degrees.

Seedlings are ready for transplanting after the appearance of 5-7 leaves

Outdoor Landing Pattern - Depth and Distance

For planting in open ground, you must adhere to the following rules:

Holes should be made in the garden at a distance 0.5-0.7 meters apart in a checkerboard pattern. Leave 70cm spacing between rows.
Seedlings are placed in holes so that the surface remains only a few top leaves. The soil should be crushed and sprinkled with sand around to protect the plant from rot.
Harvest after planting should be watered with summer or slightly warmed water.
To protect a young plant from the scorching sun, it is necessary to close the sprouts for 2-3 days with moistened caps made of plastic or paper.

10-14 days after planting, you need to feed the crop with a solution of ammonium nitrate 20g per bucket of 2 liters for each bush. During the period when the buds appear, you need to feed melons with infusion of mullein.

Seedlings are planted in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of about half a meter

Features of growing melons

To ensure free access of oxygen to the roots, the soil needs to be constantly loosen to a depth of 10 cm. With the development of lateral loops, spud the culture. In order for the plant not to spend all its strength on gaining mass during the growth period, you need to pinch the main stem. For the full development of melons, three shoots are enough.

When fruit ovaries appear, 2-6 of the strongest and largest specimens are left on the bush. To reduce the load on the whip, it is recommended to tie the fruits into nets and hang on a support. The fruits are placed on foil linings to prevent rotting.

To reduce the load on the whip, the fruits can be hung in a net.

If watermelons will be used for storage and transportation in the future, then it is better to take a berry not fully ripe.

Advantages of planting in open ground:

in warm weather, you can achieve maximum ripeness fruits;
daily watering of the culture is not necessary;
it is possible to increase the yield if the basic rules for selecting soil and planting seeds for seedlings are observed.

Growing watermelons and melons in a summer cottage is quite realistic. Some even grow them in bags or greenhouses. If you follow all the recommendations, then by the end of summer you can enjoy sweet, sugary fruits. The main advantage of growing melons in your garden is the absence of chemicals.

(OKVED 2) 01.13.2 Cultivation of gourds

Melon crops include one- or perennial plants of the gourd family (Cucurbitaceae), which have long outstretched or climbing stems with tendrils: watermelon, melon, pumpkin, zucchini, squash, etc. The most popular, for obvious reasons, are watermelons and melons, which are cultivated for juicy fruits with high taste. Watermelon and melon are eaten mostly fresh as a dessert. However, jam, jam, molasses, watermelon honey (nardek, bekmes) are also cooked from the fruits of these gourds, candied fruit, marshmallow and pickles are prepared, they are still quite widely used in the canning and confectionery industry. From the seeds of many plants of the gourd family, valuable vegetable oil is obtained.

As part of this article, we will look at a seasonal watermelon growing business. Watermelon owes its high popularity to its valuable dietary, taste and nutritional properties. Watermelon contains high amounts of sucrose and fructose, which give it sweetness, and watermelon pulp and skin contain various beneficial amino acids, macro- and micronutrients, including antioxidants, fiber, calcium, iron, magnesium, potassium, sulfur, folic acid and sodium.

General information about watermelons

In our country, watermelons are grown on an industrial scale in the Volga region and in some areas of the southern regions, as well as in the Crimea. Watermelons are heat-loving plants that are well cultivated in the steppe climate with long, hot, dry summers, so in these regions they ripen freely in the open air, acquiring excellent taste. In the middle black earth regions of Russia, as well as in more northern regions, watermelons are usually grown not in the fields (in open ground), where they simply do not have time to ripen in a season, but in greenhouses (under a film). Watermelon has a powerful root system, which provides the plant with enough moisture and nutrients for the ripening of large juicy fruits. The main root of watermelon plants can penetrate the soil to a depth of two meters, and the lateral roots form a large number of roots of the second and third orders, reaching a depth of 3-4 meters.

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At first, the vegetative mass of plants develops rather slowly, since the root system grows intensively during this period. But already 20-30 days after germination, the plants begin to grow actively, forming side shoots. Their growth can reach two meters in just one day. The timing of the flowering of watermelon depends on its precocity. As a rule, flowers can be observed already a month and a half after the emergence of seedlings, and flowering continues until the end of the plant's growing season.

Watermelon flowers, as a rule, are dioecious, that is, both male and female flowers can form on the same plant. In the most common varieties, however, bisexual, that is, hermaphroditic, and male flowers are more often formed, and in some species, female, male, and bisexual flowers. It is possible to distinguish female and male flowers by size: the former, as a rule, are larger, have a wide five-lobed stigma on a short style. Bisexual flowers are similar in appearance to female ones. They differ only in that they form both stamens and pistil at once. The flowers open in the morning at dawn and fade in 15-16 hours. Female and bisexual flowers open earlier than male ones and, if fertilization does not occur, remain open during the next day. Male flowers fade after a few hours.

Depending on the duration of the growing season (that is, from the moment of germination to the onset of the biological maturity of the plant), varieties and hybrids of watermelon are divided into several main types: ultra-early (up to 70 days), early (71-80 days), mid-season (81-90 days ), medium-late (91-100 days) and late-ripening (over 100 days). Keep in mind that ultra-early and early-ripening watermelons tend to be less sugary and more watery than mid- and late-ripening ones. However, for industrial cultivation, these varieties are considered more preferable.

Watermelon fruits can vary greatly in shape, color and size. In most cases, they have an oval-round shape with an average diameter of 20-25 cm and an average weight of 3-6 kg. The surface of the watermelon bark is usually smooth, but there are also segmented fruits, and the thickness of the bark depends on the variety, cultivation method and soil quality. In most fruits, the thickness of the bark is from one to one and a half centimeters. In some varieties, the thickness of the bark does not exceed half a centimeter, and in thick-skinned watermelons it can reach 4 cm. Watermelons with an average thickness of stern of 1-1.5 cm are still the most popular. Although thick-skinned watermelons are more convenient to transport and store longer, but buyers as a rule, they do not want to overpay for the "extra" weight of the inedible fruit bark. Thin-skinned watermelons have a very short shelf life and require careful transportation.

Watermelon flesh is usually red, but in some varieties it can be orange, yellow, or even pearly. However, experienced entrepreneurs rely mainly on traditional rather than exotic varieties. Seeds also differ in shape, color and size. They can be large, medium or small in weight from 30 to 150 grams / 1000 pieces. black, yellow, white, reddish brown or even greenish. Seed germination is usually maintained for 4-5 years.

Of all the species of these gourds, the common watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) is the most widespread. It is a herbaceous annual plant with fruits of spherical, oval, cylindrical or flattened shape with bark of various shades from white and yellow to dark green with a pattern in the form of stripes or spots. Its flesh is usually pink, red or crimson, but there are also varieties with white or yellow flesh. The stems of this culture are thin, creeping or curly, very flexible. They can be up to four meters long. The seeds of the common watermelon are flat, often bordered, with a scar. This plant blooms throughout the summer months, while the fruits usually ripen no earlier than August-September.

Growing watermelons in open ground

To begin with, you will need to choose suitable varieties for growing watermelons on melons. Approach this issue with great care. Do not pay attention to the bright pictures on the sites and the assurances of the sellers. To get started, read the growing guidelines or consult an experienced agronomist. When choosing, pay attention to the fact how many days this variety will need to ripen.

Astrakhan, or Bykovsky (white), monastic (green with white stripes and with red or gray seeds), kamyshinsky (of the same color), Crimson Sweet (early) and a number of others are considered the best varieties of gourds. Seeds are usually sold in packs of five for 35-45 rubles per package. At the same time, some suppliers set a minimum purchase lot - from 500-700 rubles.

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Melon crops are planted only when hot weather finally sets in. As a rule, this is the middle-end of May (in the southern regions) or the beginning of June. Watermelon belongs to heat-loving plants, it does not withstand frost and does not tolerate temperature drops to 5-10 ° C. For the normal development of the plant, the temperature should be from 20-25 ° C and above (optimal - 30 ° C). Of great importance is the humidity of the air (it should ideally be 60%) and soil. On the one hand, thanks to a powerful root system, watermelon survives even in arid regions. However, if you want to get large, juicy and tasty fruits, then you need to maintain soil moisture at a certain level.

As mentioned above, watermelon seeds remain viable for 4-5 years. At the same time, two-year-old seeds are considered the most suitable for sowing, since plants grown from fresh seeds (from the previous crop) are not particularly prolific. In extreme cases, annual seeds can also be planted, but in this case it is recommended to warm them up to 60 ° C for a couple of hours. To obtain uniform seedlings, melon seeds are pre-sprouted. To do this, they are wrapped in gauze, dipped in warm water for four hours, and then laid out on wet burlap, wrapped in cloth and kept in it for two days. After that, they can be planted in the ground.

If you want to plant watermelons earlier than usual (in the second half of May), then you can grow them in seedlings using peat cups, as gourds do not tolerate transplanting. When planting watermelon seeds early, they must first be hardened off to increase their resistance to cold. To do this, they are first soaked, and then hardened for 1-2 days at a temperature of 0 to 20 °C.

Watermelon prefers mechanically light or sandy soils that warm up quickly in the sun. It is best if perennial grasses, winter wheat, corn for silage, green fodder or legumes were grown on the field before melons. Experts recommend returning watermelon crops to the previous place of cultivation of the same or other crops of the pumpkin family no earlier than in 5-8 years. However, this rule is often not respected.

Experienced people advise laying watermelon seeds in the soil not vertically, but horizontally on their side. Thus, it will be easier for the leaves to break through the thick shell of the seed. In open ground, watermelons are planted in rows or nesting. Take into account the fact that one plant should have a fairly large space. This requirement is due, firstly, to the length of the lashes, and secondly, to the size of the fruits, for the ripening of which plants need a very large amount of nutrients. Watermelon seeds are sown manually in shallow holes 4-6 cm deep. 2-3 seeds are placed in one hole, then it is filled with water and covered with earth.

Shoots appear, as a rule, on the tenth - eleventh days of sowing. After another week, the first leaf blooms, and the main shoot begins to form at least two weeks later, or even later, depending on the variety. Caring for gourds is standard - weeding and loosening the soil, removing weeds and regular watering. For the whole season, you need to weed and loosen the melon at least four times, but water it - from 3-4 to 9-12 times per season, depending on the weather and the condition of the plants. When the central leaves of plants begin to wilt, this is a sure sign that they are not getting enough moisture. Watermelons need to be watered with warm water (temperature from 15 ° C) to the very root. Watering should be relatively plentiful so that moisture penetrates deep into the entire arable layer. Water consumption is from 50 to 100 cubic meters per hectare. In not very dry weather, the next, more abundant watering is done after the formation of the ovary and when the fruits reach a weight of 3-5 kg. In this case, the water consumption can be 150 cubic meters per hectare. It is extremely important to develop your own schedule and watering rates, depending on the region and weather conditions, and strictly adhere to them. A lack or excess of moisture can cut the resulting yield by more than half. With excessive watering, there is a high risk of developing various fungal diseases of plants, and excess moisture during fruit ripening can adversely affect their quality: watermelons will turn out unsweetened and watery.

At the beginning of growth, melons and gourds are recommended to be fertilized with cowshed infusion (rotted manure). After harvesting, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied for digging melons (half the dose of phosphorus and nitrogen and half the dose of potassium). In some manuals, you can find recommendations for additional fertilization of melons in the spring with nitrogen fertilizers. However, they must be used with extreme caution. Excessively large doses of nitrogen fertilizers reduce the taste of fruits, which, although they grow larger, do not have a characteristic sweet taste. Moreover, high levels of nitrates can be harmful to human health.

With proper care (with regular weed removal), suitable climate, favorable weather conditions, fertile soil and watering, 20-40 tons of crops can be harvested per hectare of sown area when grown on the ground, and 40-70 tons when grown on film. As we mentioned above, the ripening process for early-ripening fruits takes 60-85 days, for mid-ripening and late-ripening fruits - an average of 100 days. You can determine the maturity of the fetus by its appearance - the elasticity and brilliance of the bark, its color, and the brightness of the pattern. If you hit a ripe fruit with your palm, the sound will be deaf. When squeezing such a watermelon, a crackling of the pulp inside is heard. In cool weather, ripe watermelons can remain on melons for up to a month. However, in extreme heat, they burn out in less than a week under the scorching rays of the sun, so take care of the room for storing ripe fruits and timely harvesting in advance.

Growing watermelons in greenhouses

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If you want to get an early and / or more abundant harvest, if you plan to grow watermelons in regions where the climate is not suitable for gourds, then you can not do without greenhouses. The following varieties of watermelons are suitable for greenhouse cultivation: F1 Gift to the North, Cinderella, Ultra Early, F1 Charleston near Moscow, Ogonyok, Pannonia F1, F1 Rose Champagne, Siberian, F1 Krimstar ".

Seedlings for the greenhouse are recommended to be sown in the second half of April. For forcing seedlings, a special mixture is prepared, which includes three parts of humus with one part of the earth, a tablespoon of potash and nitrogen fertilizers, three tablespoons of phosphorus fertilizer. Also, if you do not use mineral fertilizers, you can add a glass of wood ash and one teaspoon of potassium sulfate per bucket of soil mixture.

As with sowing seeds in open ground, when planting seedlings, they are laid to a shallow depth - up to 2-3 cm. Before germination, the soil with seeds should be kept at a temperature of 22-25 ° C. When the first shoots appear, the temperature can drop at night to a maximum of 15-17 ° C.

In general, care for watermelon seedlings is the same as for cucumber seedlings. It is necessary to provide the shoots with a long daylight hours - from 12 to 14 hours, otherwise, if there is a lack of light, they will begin to stretch too quickly, giving long but weak shoots. You can provide the necessary lighting with the help of special lamps that are used for greenhouse crops. A week after germination, it is recommended to shade the seedlings with a black film from 18 to 8 hours (from evening to morning). On the tenth day after the shoots appear, the plants are fed with mineral fertilizers (10-15 grams of potassium chloride, ammonia sulfur, 20-25 grams of superphosphate per 10 liters of water).

Do not forget to prepare the soil in the greenhouse in advance for planting seedlings. It is planted only in "warm" beds. To prepare them, a week before planting, a layer of earth 15-20 cm thick is removed from the soil. Hay with humus is laid in this trench, which is sprinkled with nitrogen fertilizers and abundantly moistened with hot water, and then covered with soil and black film. After the soil warms up to at least 10-12 ° C, it will be possible to plant seedlings in it to a depth of 10 cm. - in the third decade of April - the first decade of May. When the lashes appear and as they grow, they are tied to the trellises, and the fruits themselves, due to their large weight, are recommended to be hung in nets. For the rapid growth of plants, the lashes are pinched, leaving three leaves above the fruit and removing weak shoots.

The greenhouse must be regularly ventilated, avoiding drafts. It is desirable that insects that pollinate female flowers get into the greenhouse. However, you can do it yourself. To do this, carefully monitor the appearance of male flowers, which fade very quickly. With manual pollination, they are plucked, the petals are carefully removed and the anthers are applied to the stigma of female flowers several times. Experts advise doing this in the morning at an air temperature of about 20 ° C, but only on condition that the night before this the air temperature did not drop below 12 ° C.

Do not forget to leave enough seeds after harvesting for the next crops. Watermelons that grow from these seeds resist various diseases better and grow faster.

Ripe watermelons are sold to wholesale companies, private sellers, directly to end customers and through fruit and vegetable stores. With small volumes, it is most profitable to sell watermelons on your own, since wholesale prices differ from retail ones at times.

Sysoeva Lilia

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Many gardeners grow gourds(watermelons, melons, pumpkins) of various types and varieties in their summer cottages. As a result, many questions often arise. For example, do you need to pinch the shoots, like cucumbers, at the beginning of growth? What are the soil requirements? How often should pumpkins and melons be watered in summer? The fight against diseases of these plants is also important.

Here are some expert advice on the subject.
Melons and gourds are heat-loving plants. Seed germination begins at a temperature of 13-15 ° C for melon, 16-17 - for watermelon, 12 - for pumpkin. The most favorable for the growth and development of plants is the average daily temperature above 15°C, optimal for pumpkin - 20°C, for watermelon and melon - 22-30°C. Plants of gourds light-loving, and when darkened, the yield, sugar and taste of the fruit are reduced. Melon plants are relatively resistant to air drought in the presence of moisture in the soil. Plants are especially demanding of moisture during the period of seed germination and emergence of seedlings. Pumpkins need moisture and consume it in greater quantities than melons and watermelons.

The lack of moisture in the soil and the dryness of the air during flowering and fruit growth have a negative effect. Excess moisture at this time reduces the sugar content in fruits, palatability, and contributes to the spread of diseases.

Gourds grow and develop better on light soils with a sufficient content of organic matter, pumpkins grow well on heavy loamy soils when organic fertilizers are applied. Good results are obtained by local application of 300-500 g of humus, 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt to the wells. Melons and watermelons are best grown on light, well-warmed soils located on gentle southern and southwestern slopes, protected from the winds.

Before sowing, the seeds of watermelons and melons are heated for 5 hours at a temperature of 50 ° C and at 60-70 ° C for 2 hours, then disinfection is carried out in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 25-30 minutes, followed by washing with running water . It can be disinfected with a 0.5% solution of copper sulphate for 24 hours (against bacteriosis). Pumpkin tolerates early sowing better than other gourds, so sowing in open ground in the southern regions of Siberia, in particular in Altai, is carried out on May 10-20, watermelons and melons - on May 18-25. Pumpkin seeding scheme: 200×100 cm and 200×20 cm 2-3 plants per hole to a depth of 5-8 cm, watermelon and melon according to the scheme 100×100 cm, 150×60-70 cm and 150×100 cm 1-2 plants per hole or 1 plant per 1m2. Seeding depth 3-6 cm, depending on the size. For watermelons and melons, it is better to make ridges 10-15 cm high and 30-40 cm wide or ridges. In the soil, first add humus or compost at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 linear meter and the same amount of sod land, 15-20 g of nitrogen fertilizers and potash and 30-40 g of phosphorus. Dig everything carefully. When growing melon and watermelon through seedlings, sowing is carried out in humus-earthen cubes or pots 7x7x8 cm in size, filled with a mixture of soddy soil, humus, peat or sawdust in a ratio of 1:1:1. Seedlings 15-20 days old (from seedlings) take root better, which are planted in the ground on June 10-15, when the threat of frost has passed. In order to get ripe fruits of melon and watermelon 10-15 days earlier, seedlings are planted under temporary shelters in the phase of 2-3 true leaves on May 20-25.

When growing gourds in open ground, it is better to irrigate in the phase of 2-3 true leaves or when planting seedlings, at the beginning of flowering and in the first period of fruit growth. Water abundantly and no more than 1 time per week. After watering and rain, loosening is necessary, especially on heavy soils. When ripe, watering is stopped.

Melon plants form the crop mainly on shoots of the first and second orders and, to speed up maturation, do pinching the main shoot over 5-6 m real leaf. Then, when the ovary reaches a size of 5 cm, pinch the lateral shoot over the 2-3rd leaf after the ovary. In watermelons and pumpkins, the first female flowers are formed on the main stem, so pinching them at an early age delays ripening. For all gourds, to accelerate ripening, a month before the first frost, it is necessary to pinch the tops of all lashes. Bacteriosis, anthracnose, fusarium wilt, ascochitosis are the main diseases spread in the region on melons and gourds. Disease control measures on pumpkin (melon) crops. 1. Disinfection of seeds and selection of disease-resistant varieties. Disinfection of seeds against bacteriosis is carried out: a) in a 0.5% solution of copper sulphate for 24 hours; b) soaking the seeds for a day in a 0.02% solution of zinc sulfate, followed by airing to flowability. Against anthracnose, to increase plant immunity, seeds are soaked in a 0.2% solution of trace elements (manganese, copper, boron) before sowing. 2. Since the source of diseases, in addition to seeds, are plant residues, it is necessary to remove them from the site, and place the pumpkin in the old place in 3-4 years. 3. During the growing season of plants against the listed diseases, the plants are treated with a 0.1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Against bacteriosis and anthracnose - spraying with a 0.15% solution of copper sulfate. With ascochitosis, especially on the stems, the affected areas are powdered or coated with a mixture of copper sulfate and chalk or crushed coal. With Fusarium wilt, the soil is also the source of infection. Therefore, before sowing and planting seedlings, water the soil with a 0.5% solution of copper sulfate; introduction of trichodermin into the soil, both during planting and during the growing season.

Everyone knows that today buying vegetables in the market from unknown people is quite risky for many reasons.

But there is a way out: grow vegetables in your area. However, in the middle lane, where summer is short for the ripening of watermelons and melons, this is quite difficult to do. But probably!

Do you want an early harvest? Plant seedlings on the window!

Not everyone knows that melons, which are generally planted in central Russia with seeds in the soil in early June, it is quite possible to start growing them already in March on your window.

Why do people rarely use this method? Yes, it is very difficult to simply transplant seedlings of cucumbers, melons, watermelons - their roots are tender and quite sensitive to various kinds of injuries.
It is for this that melon seedlings are prepared in special peat pots, which are then planted directly in them.

And if there are none, then you can make a container ... from plain paper!
On a bottle, for example, a deodorant with a diameter of 3-4 cm, a strip of a sheet 9-10 cm wide is wound so that about 4 cm remains free on the edge. This will be the bottom of the container. It must be crushed in such a way that a glass is obtained. Then the container is carefully removed from the template and filled with earth. This is where the seed is planted.

Seedling care is normal: sunlight, regular watering. It is only important not to fill the glass with water so that it does not get wet right on the window.

In late May - early June, seedlings can be planted in the ground just as directly in a cup. During watering, it will get wet in the ground, and the roots will freely penetrate deep into. This is all the more useful because paper (or a peat cup) protects the roots from the cold for some time. And the need to penetrate the walls of the container is some “charging” for them. So they will become stronger and stronger.

The sprout will be covered by a matryoshka-greenhouse - let it not be afraid of frost at all!

You can plant seeds directly into the ground. They also do this at the end of May. And so that our seedlings do not freeze, they are covered with plastic bottles. And there is one trick here.
A liter eggplant cut from below is covered with a seed or seedlings, slightly sinking its edge into the ground. You can cover its edge with sand. It is best to remove the cover - it will interfere with watering.

On top of the second shelter will be a larger plastic container of 3 or 5 liters. It is also cut off from below and placed on top of a small one. The lid is left closed. And watering can be done through the neck of the bottles. Of course, during this procedure, the cover is removed.
When the seedlings no longer fit under the bottom bottle, it is removed, leaving only the top. It can be kept over seedlings until mid-June.

Melons are very susceptible to heat and light - this is not a secret. Therefore, they should be planted only in open space, where there are no shading.

Although there are some difficulties here: in extreme heat, plants can burn out. Therefore, on such days it is better to cover gourds from the rays with burdock leaves and newspapers. If possible, you can even pull an awning over them to create a shadow.

Curls, my watermelon curls - it will taste sweet!

So that melon bushes do not fill the ground around, do not interfere with weeding and watering, it is best for them to make a support - let them crawl up, clinging with their antennae! This is both aesthetically pleasing and convenient, and protects the shoots from decay.

Watering water, but do not rot the entire crop!

Another problem for gardeners in central Russia is that sometimes the fruits lying on the ground rot, just a disaster! Especially on cold and rainy days.
And in order to prevent this incident, experienced melon growers pour a pile of sand at the root neck of the plant - a hill of 2-3 cm. You can use hay or straw.

And many more put planks under the fruits. Others even put nets on them and hang them from supports - and it is not difficult for the bushes to hold them, and they do not come into contact with the ground, and worms and slugs will not get to the fruits.

And there are those who care about the convenience of storing melons. After all, round fruits have the ability to ride, which creates some inconvenience. And if the ovary is immediately placed in a transparent container with a flat bottom, for example, in a five-liter plastic eggplant, then the fruit will gradually fill it and take the shape of a rectangle. This is how you can kill two birds with one stone at once: protect the vegetable from rot and give it its original shape.

We water the melon on the sidelines - we will have a bountiful harvest!

In the northern regions, groundwater often lies quite close to the surface. And the roots of gourds grow intensively in depth. But, reaching the aquifer, they begin to rot.
Cunning gardeners figured out how to deceive nature. If you water the plant not at the roots, but somewhat on the sidelines, then this trouble can be avoided. In this case, the roots will grow in breadth, feeling the moisture.

We just make a groove along the bed - we pour water there during irrigation. But do not forget to loosen and mulch the groove the next day to avoid the formation of an earthen crust. Yes, and watering after the formation of ovaries should be reduced. It is needed only in the heat.

We cut off the extra lashes - we do not interfere with the harvest!

To get the most delicious fruits already in August, you need to take care of this in advance. To do this, you should trim the extra lashes - the plant spends its strength on them, and absolutely all the fruits that have begun to ripen in the conditions of the middle lane will not be able to ripen, this is a proven fact.

Therefore, watermelons need to cut out all the side lashes, leaving only the main one - female flowers form on it. Leave no more than 6 ovaries on one bush.
For melons, the main lash above the 6th leaf should be removed. Also, do not allow the plant to "feed" more than 5-6 fruits.

Using the useful tips shared by experienced experts, even a novice gardener will be able to pamper his family with gourds grown with his own hands.

Video about growing watermelons 20-35 kg.

Their distinctive feature is long stems with antennae. In the event that supports are placed next to these crops, the whips will begin to “climb” along them. In order to correctly apply the cultivation technology, which will be described below in the article, you need to know exactly which crops are melons.

These are melon, pumpkin, watermelon, squash, zucchini and some others.

Two-year-old seeds are considered the most suitable for sowing in gourds. If there is no opportunity to obtain such planting material, you can use annual ones. However, in this case, they need to be heated to 60 degrees for 2 hours. In order for the seedlings to be more friendly, the seeds of gourds are also germinated. To do this, they are wrapped in gauze and dipped in warm water for four hours. Then they are placed in a damp burlap and kept for a day or two.

Most gourds prefer sunny places, warm weather and are resistant to a long absence of moisture. The thing is that the homeland of all these cultures are the hot regions of the planet. Watermelons, for example, grow wild in South Africa, and melons and pumpkins in Asia.

Melons not only tolerate dry air well, but also produce tastier and sweeter fruits under such conditions.

Seeds are planted in the ground only when the summer weather becomes stable, that is, in early June. In order to get a harvest a little earlier, gourds can be grown in seedlings. For this, peat cups are used, because these plants do not tolerate transplantation well. Melons are planted in the ground either in a nested way or in rows. Each such plant requires a lot of space. Firstly, they have long lashes that need space to develop, and secondly, they have large fruits, which is why they require a huge amount of nutrients.

Melon crops are planted in 2-3 pieces. Melons and watermelons - to a depth of 4 cm, pumpkins - 6 cm. In warm weather, seedlings appear on the tenth day of sowing, and the first real leaf - a week later. Depending on the variety, the main shoot may begin to form in 15-40 days.

Then shoots of the second order, the third, etc. branch off from it. The flowers of these plants are of different sexes - both female and male specimens bloom on the same plant.

As for top dressing, during the season melons in the early stages of development can be fertilized with mullein infusion. In the autumn, after harvesting, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied for digging, and nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring when preparing the beds. Although the plants of this family are drought-resistant, they still give a higher yield when watered. During the season, the soil under them is well moistened 9-12 times. However, during the ripening of the fruit, watering the plants should be as rare as possible. Otherwise, the fruits will grow watery and not too sweet.

Growing gourds is a rather complicated matter, since the climate in Russia is not very suitable for them. Often, even with proper care, the gardener does not receive a crop. The result after all in many respects depends on weather conditions. If you still want to grow watermelons or melons on your site, then you should try to do it. If you're lucky, you can diversify your diet with delicious and unusually healthy fruits.

Melons and gourds are heat-loving plants. Seed germination begins at a temperature of 13-15 ° C for melon, 16-17 - for watermelon, 12 - for pumpkin.

The most favorable for the growth and development of plants is the average daily temperature above 15°C, optimal for pumpkin - 20°C, for watermelon and melon - 22-30°C.

Plants of gourds light-loving, and when darkened, the yield, sugar and taste of the fruit are reduced. Melon plants are relatively resistant to air drought in the presence of moisture in the soil. Plants are especially demanding of moisture during the period of seed germination and emergence of seedlings.

Pumpkins need moisture and consume it in greater quantities than melons and watermelons.

Melons and watermelons are best grown on light, well-warmed soils located on gentle southern and southwestern slopes, protected from the winds.

Pumpkin tolerates early sowing better than other gourds, so sowing in open ground in the southern regions of Siberia, in particular in Altai, is carried out on May 10-20, watermelons and melons - on May 18-25. Sowing scheme for pumpkin: 200x100 cm and 200x20 cm, 2-3 plants per hole to a depth of 5-8 cm, watermelon and melon according to the scheme 100x100 cm, 150x60-70 cm and 150x100 cm, 1-2 plants per hole or 1 plant per 1m2. Seeding depth 3-6 cm, depending on the size.

For watermelons and melons, it is better to make ridges 10-15 cm high and 30-40 cm wide or ridges. In the soil, first add humus or compost at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 linear meter and the same amount of sod land, 15-20 g of nitrogen fertilizers and potash and 30-40 g of phosphorus. Dig everything carefully.

When growing melon and watermelon through seedlings, sowing is carried out in humus-earthen cubes or pots 7x7x8 cm in size, filled with a mixture of soddy soil, humus, peat or sawdust in a ratio of 1:1:1.

Seedlings 15-20 days old (from seedlings) take root better, which are planted in the ground on June 10-15, when the threat of frost has passed.

In order to get ripe fruits of melon and watermelon 10-15 days earlier, seedlings are planted under temporary shelters in the phase of 2-3 true leaves on May 20-25.

In watermelons and pumpkins, the first female flowers are formed on the main stem, so pinching them at an early age delays ripening.

For all gourds, to accelerate ripening, a month before the first frost, it is necessary to pinch the tops of all lashes.

Cultivation of an early harvest of gourds is achieved by introducing early-ripening varieties into the culture, using different methods of pre-sowing preparation of seeds, placing crops on the southern slopes, growing seedlings, mulching crops with synthetic materials, using temporary film shelters, growing gourds in protected ground.

Cultivation of an early crop in an open ground in a seedling way. This method makes it possible to grow ripe fruits in open ground 10-20 days earlier and increase their yield by 26-50%, especially in the first days of harvest.

The seedling method of growing gourds in open ground is effective in all areas of the country. In the south, this method makes it possible to obtain ripe fruits from open ground as early as early July, and in the western regions and in Polissya it is possible to successfully grow these crops, where when sowing seeds directly into the soil, watermelons and melons do not always ripen.

Growing seedlings of gourds for open ground. Seedlings of gourds are grown in greenhouses, which are released after seedlings of early cabbage, early green crops and in film greenhouses. Plants of gourds are difficult to transplant, so seedlings are grown in pots, bulk containers or in cassettes.

The composition of the soil mixture depends on the availability of local materials, which include humus, peat, sod land, mullein, sawdust. In the presence of peat, the components of the soil mixture are: three parts of peat, one part of sawdust, 0.5 parts of mullein, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:4. For 1 m 3 of soil mixture, 1 kg of ammonium nitrate, 1 kg of potassium chloride and 2 kg of superphosphate are added. Dolomite flour or chalk, in the case of using peat, is added to bring the pH to 6.5. In areas where peat is absent, a mixture of humus and soddy soil in a ratio of 3: 1 is used to make pots. For 1 m 3 of the mixture add 5-10% mullein and mineral fertilizers - 3 kg of superphosphate, 1 kg of ammonium nitrate and 0.5 kg of potassium sulfate.

The highest yields of cheap early production of melons are given by watermelon plants planted with 30-day seedlings, and melons - with 20-day-old seedlings. Younger seedlings do not give the expected effect, and 40- and 45-day-old seedlings after transplantation are sick for a long time. Pots should be 8x8 or 10 x 10 cm.

Seeds are sown in pots in such a way that at the time of planting the plants pass the threat of frost and warm weather is established with a soil temperature of about 14 ° C. In the central part of the country, this period begins on May 15 - 20, in the left-bank Forest-Steppe - on May 20 - 25, in the south - on May 5 - 10. Therefore, the timing of sowing seeds, taking into account the germination period, respectively, fall on 10-15, 15-20 and 1-5 April. Seedlings after sowing under optimal conditions appear on the 3-5th day. Before sowing, the seeds are carefully prepared and sown in each pot, 2-3 pecked or dry seeds to a depth of 3-4 cm. After that, the pots are watered with warm water (24-25 ° C). During seed germination, the temperature should be 25 - 30 °C. With the advent of seedlings, it is reduced over 3-4 days to 16-18 ° C. In the next period, the optimum temperature during the cultivation of seedlings of watermelons and melons is 20-25 ° C during the day, and 16-18 ° C at night. Seedlings are watered with moderately warm water. Relative humidity should be 60 - 70%. Sown seeds and seedlings can be damaged by mice, bears and other pests. To combat them, poisoned baits are buried in the soil.

After 5 - 6 days after the emergence of seedlings in pots, excess plants are removed, pinching them and leaving the most developed one at a time. Two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the plants are fed with a solution of bird droppings (1: 15) or mullein (2: 10) with the addition of 30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate per 10 l of a solution. 5-7 days before planting, seedlings are fed with a solution of mineral fertilizers (10-15 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate and 40-50 g of superphosphate in 10 liters of water for 80-100 plants). In addition, 4-5 days before planting, the seedlings are hardened, gradually increasing ventilation, reducing watering and lowering the temperature to 17-18 ° C. Seedlings suitable for planting after the formation of 3 - 4 true leaves. Before planting, it is well watered, after which it is planted manually, with pouring water into the holes or furrows, or by transplanting machines SKN-6A according to the schemes adopted in the case of growing from seeds. Under irrigation conditions, 2-3 irrigations are carried out after planting seedlings. Further care consists in loosening the row spacing, weeding between plants and removing weeds, protecting plants from pests and diseases.

For the cultivation of gourds in seedlings, the most early-ripening varieties are used.

Cultivation of early products under temporary film shelters. An effective method for obtaining an early harvest of gourds is to mulch crops with light or dark ordinary or perforated polyethylene film or agrofibre and use temporary small-sized frame and frameless shelters. Mulching with plastic film creates a favorable temperature regime in the soil and the subsoil air layer, contributes to the rapid and friendly emergence of seedlings and plant development, which ensures an increase in the overall and especially early harvest. In addition, in areas mulched with film, weed control is facilitated, since it suppresses their development, and moisture loss from evaporation is significantly reduced.

Mulching is carried out after sowing. The film is spread over the sown rows, and the edges are sprinkled with earth. After the emergence of shoots of melons in the film, holes are made to reach the surface of the film of plants. The film as a mulch is left for the entire growing season and removed after harvesting the cultivated crop. Sowing with the use of mulch is carried out 2-3 weeks earlier than the accepted dates for sowing in open ground.

The seedling method of growing melons with shelter contributed to obtaining earlier production with a yield of 135 centners per hectare, which is 80 centners per hectare higher than without shelter, and 31 centners per hectare more than when growing without seedlings with shelter. The total yield in seedling cultivation with shelter was 174 centners/ha, which was 42 centners/ha higher than without cover, and 53 centners/ha higher than in seedlingless cultivation.

At this same experimental station, I.S. Semchak and G.I. Kirilov studied the effect of seedling age on the yield of melon variety Early 133. The seedlings were grown in peat pots 8 x 8 cm in size; Seedlings were used at the age of 15, 25, 35 days, for the cultivation of which, respectively, for additional heating of film greenhouses (per 1000 pieces), 432.5, 852.6, 1245.4 kWh of electricity were used.

To grow an early crop, the site was placed on a slope with a fertile, light-textured soil. The predecessor is winter wheat. Soil cultivation consisted in stubble plowing in two directions with a BDT-3 heavy disc harrow. After 2 - 3 weeks, 50 t / ha of organic fertilizers were applied and plowing was carried out to a depth of 27 - 30 cm with a plow with skimmers. After plowing diagonally, the fields were planned, and a month later, across the plowing, non-moldboard plowing to a depth of 35 cm was carried out. In winter, snow retention was carried out. In early spring, the soil was harrowed, then cultivation was carried out to a depth of 12-14 cm, and before planting seedlings, chiselling to a depth of 22 cm.

Across the chiselling, the day before planting the seedlings, earth rolls 25–30 cm high were cut with a special machine of the NDIOG design, with a distance of 140 cm between them. by means of an NDIOG design machine, they covered it with a plastic film. Film consumption per 1 ha was 550 kg. The film was used with a web width of 140-150 cm and a thickness of 0.08-0.1 mm

Seedlings were planted in the conditions of the Donetsk region in the third decade of April - the first decade of May. Seedlings, depending on age, had different biometric indicators (Table 15).

The root system of 15-day-old seedlings was inside the pot for the planting period, while in 35-day-old seedlings it went beyond its borders and was injured during the selection, transportation and planting of seedlings, which reduced its survival rate by 7%. Phenological observations showed that by the phase of mass flowering, plants of seedlings of 15 days of age were 2-3 days behind in development compared to seedlings of 35 days of age, but the first harvest of fruits was simultaneous. Plants of 15-day-old seedlings had 1.5-2 times less shoots and leaves, and the length of each shoot and the assimilating surface of leaves were 2-2.5 times greater compared to 35-day-old seedlings.

Seedlings of 15 and 25 days of age provided a greater increase in yield compared to seedlings of 35 days of age (Table 16).

The lowest cost of the harvest was when using 15-day-old seedlings.

Consequently, 15-day-old seedlings are not inferior to 25- and 35-day-old seedlings over the total yield; its advantage also lies in the fact that 2-3 times less electricity is spent on its cultivation.

Seedlings of watermelons and melons are grown for 30-35 days until 4-5 true leaves are formed on the plants. The technology of growing seedlings is similar to that described in the section "Growing gourds in open ground". Growing seedlings for hydroponic greenhouses is associated with the use of polyethylene pots and a fine fraction (3 - 5 mm) of crushed granite. For low-volume cultivation, mineral wool cubes are used. During the cultivation of seedlings intended for early planting, additional artificial lighting is used.

High whimsicality to light determines the timing of growing watermelons and melons in winter greenhouses. In the third light zone, they are planted in a permanent place in late February - early March, in the conditions of the fourth and fifth light zones - in mid-February, in the sixth light zone - in January.

To increase the resistance of melons and watermelons against diseases and increase productivity, they can be grafted onto a pumpkin. The vaccination is done in a split, and a few leaves are left on the stock, because after the vaccination, the graft is not able to assimilate all the necessary substances in the first period. Watermelon is grafted onto a table gourd (Lagenaria), melon - onto a large-fruited or fig pumpkin (C. figolia). Grafting watermelons and melons on a pumpkin speeds up fruiting at 3-4 weeks. This increases the sugar content of the fruit.

In block greenhouses with a link width of 6.4 m, melons are planted in six rows according to a 106 x 35 cm pattern, and watermelons are planted in four rows according to a 160 x 50 cm pattern.

In the case of growing watermelons and melons in winter greenhouses, attention is focused on maintaining optimal temperatures in the root-containing medium at a level of about 25 ° C. The optimum air temperature for melons during the day during sunny hours should be 26 - 28 ° C, cloudy - 22 - 24 ° C, at night - 18 - 20 ° C, relative humidity - 60 - 70%. For watermelons, respectively, during sunny hours - 24 - 26 ° C, cloudy hours - 20-22, at night - 17-18 ° C, relative humidity - 60-65%.

Before fruit set, the plants are watered moderately, due to the tendency of plants to accelerate growth to the detriment of fruiting. Watering is increased only with the beginning of the fruit filling, at the same time carrying out top dressing. Watermelons are watered more moderately compared to melons.

In hydroponic greenhouses, before fruit set, the substrate is moistened once or twice a day so as not to stimulate the formation of stems and leaves and delay the fruiting process. During the filling of fruits, the substrate is moistened with a nutrient solution more often - up to 3-4 times a day, and during the period of fruit ripening - 2-3 times. With a moderate supply of moisture, sweeter fruits are formed.

For better pollination of gourds, beehives with bees are placed a week before the start of flowering of female flowers. Flowering begins 35 - 40 days after planting seedlings. The period from flowering to the beginning of fruit ripening is 40-45 days, depending on the variety.

Lateral shoots of the third order at a height of 80-100 cm are removed, which prevents the spreading of shoots on the soil surface.

After ovaries with a diameter of 3-4 cm are formed on the plants, some of them are removed, leaving varieties with large fruits one fruit per shoot, and small-fruited varieties two fruits each. The fruits are left by those that are closer to the main shoot. Weak, underdeveloped shoots are removed. The shoots on which the ovary is left are shortened over the fourth or fifth leaf above the ovary. To speed up the filling of fruits, it is recommended to stop the growth of young shoots by pinching their tops.

In watermelon plants, fruits begin to form on the main shoot, therefore, during the seedling period, the plants are not pinched and the main stem grows arbitrarily along a vertical trellis. In the future, the fruits are formed on the shoots of the second and next orders. During the rationing of fruits on one plant, 2-3 ovaries are left. The shoots on which the ovaries are left are pinched, leaving 4-5 leaves above each fruit and removing excess ovaries. The lower shoots, like dini plants, are removed. Shoots are also removed that are poorly developed and those on which there are no ovaries.

The fruits of watermelons and melons, which are already growing or already ripening, are placed in polyethylene or cotton nets and hung from a trellis. The yield of watermelons averages 5-6, and melons 5-7 kg / m 2.

In greenhouses, watermelons and melons are grown as tomato compactors. Plants are planted together with the main crop in five or six rows at a distance of 70 - 80 cm from one another. Then they are tied to a vertical trellis. After the formation of the required number of fruits on the plants, the shoots are pinched, leaving 4-5 leaves above each fruit. The remaining ovaries and all non-fruiting shoots are removed. Fruits in nets are tied to a trellis (stretched wire). Shoots of watermelons and melons, which occupy space above the main crop, create favorable temperature conditions in the spring and summer months, protecting plants from overheating during high temperatures.

The yield of watermelons and melons as sealing plants is 0.6 - 0.8 kg/m 2 .

GROWING GOLUNS IN FILM GREENHOUSES

The use of film greenhouses makes it possible to grow in

an average of 5-6 kg/m 2 of melons and gourds prior to their receipt from the open ground. In some cases, up to 10-12 kg/m 2 are obtained.

Under the conditions of Ukraine, seedlings of melons and gourds are planted in film greenhouses with heating in March - early April, and in greenhouses without heating - in the second half of April. In the Crimea, in a greenhouse with heating, seedlings of watermelons and melons are planted in late February - early March, in a greenhouse with emergency heating - in the second half of March, and in non-heated ones - in the first - second decade of April. Of particular importance is the culture of gourds in film greenhouses when they are reused after growing seedlings of vegetable plants for open ground. Seedlings under these conditions are planted in the second half of April - the first half of May.

Soil preparation. For the cultivation of watermelons and melons, as the main crop in film greenhouses, soil preparation begins with the introduction of humus for watermelons at 100-150, and for melons at 150-200 t / ha (L. G. Shulgina). In order to improve the physical properties of the soil, sawdust or straw is added up to 25% of the volume of the soil mixture. Straw chopping is applied in several steps, after which it is buried to a depth of 25 cm. Straw activates microbiological processes in the soil and this can lead to its depletion in nutrients, especially nitrogen, so 10 kg of active nitrogen must be added per 1 ton of straw . If the straw rate is 3 kg / m 2, additionally add 86 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m 2 of the greenhouse.

Sawdust is also an effective leavening material. It is best to use precomposted sawdust. During composting, 10 m 3 sawdust is mixed from 1 ton of humus and 100 - 200 kg of bird droppings, filled with gnaw and composted for 4 months. in piles 80 cm high, interrupting them every 2 months. If the farms have peat, it is added to the soil mixture at the rate of 100-150 t/ha. Adding lime to peat, bring the pH value to 6.2 - 6.4.

In autumn, in addition to organic fertilizers and loosening materials, 4-5 centners / ha of superphosphate are applied for plowing, and 1.5 - 2 centners / ha of ammonium nitrate and 1 - 1.5 centners / ha of potassium sulfate are applied in spring for milling.

In the case of using greenhouses after their release from seedlings for open ground, fertilizers are not applied.

Cultivation of seedlings is carried out according to the technology described in the section "Growing gourds in open ground". G. L. Borisov, V. Ya. 01% solution of zinc sulfate, germinate and sow two seeds in peat-muck or plastic bulk pots 10 x 10 x 8 or 12 x 12 x 8 cm in size. Weak plants are removed 4-5 days after emergence. Melon seedlings are grown within 12-14 days, watermelons - 18-20 days from the moment of germination. The timing of sowing seeds for growing seedlings is determined based on the timing of the start of planting plants in a permanent place. The temperature in the greenhouse is maintained at 22-24°C during the day and 17-19°C at night. Seedlings are watered moderately, always with warm water, after watering the greenhouse is ventilated. 5 - 7 days before planting seedlings in the soil in the room, increase ventilation and stop watering. On the eve of planting, the plants are watered until the entire volume of the soil mixture of the pot is completely moistened. With the normal development of seedlings, feeding with phosphorus (45 g of superphosphate per 10 l of water) and potassium (10 g of potassium salt per 10 l of water) fertilizers is done only 1-2 days before planting it in a permanent place. In case of poor development of plants, they are fed at the beginning of the formation of the second or third leaf. In this case, a complete mineral fertilizer is applied at the rate of 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water. At the time of planting seedlings in a permanent place, it should have two or three, but not more than four true leaves.

Seedlings of watermelons and melons in heated greenhouses are planted when the soil warms up to 20 - 22 ° C. After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, the temperature in the greenhouses is maintained for the first 3-4 days in sunny weather at the level of 20-22 ° C, and in cloudy weather and at night - 18-20 ° C. If the plants take root and start growing, the temperature in greenhouses on sunny days is maintained at 27 - 30 ° C, and on cloudy days 22 - 25 ° C, at night - 20 - 22 ° C. For a melon, after the formation of ovaries, the air temperature should be 30 -40 ° C. It should be noted that the level of optimal temperatures for watermelons is lower and their overheating is more dangerous compared to melons, therefore, in film greenhouses, during the cultivation of watermelons, proper ventilation is created. The optimum soil temperature during this period is 24-26 °C. In film greenhouses on solar heating, seedlings are planted when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm in the morning is 14 ° C. To increase the temperature of the soil, it is mulched with a transparent film. From the very beginning of planting seedlings, it is desirable to arrange tunnel shelters to improve the microclimate in greenhouses. If necessary (at night), a double layer of film is applied to the tunnels.

According to research by S. A. Bondarenok and L. M. Shulgina (IOB UAAS), melons respond positively to an increase in air volume in buildings, which helps to equalize the temperature regime.

In film greenhouses, where there is more than 2 m 3 air per 1 m 2 of area, melon plants have a large vegetative mass and give a 14% higher yield than in greenhouses, where 1.5 m 3 air falls on 1 m 2. In small-sized film greenhouses, the optimal density is 2-3 plants per 1 m 2 with 2-3 main shoots on each. Plants are placed according to the scheme 70 x 70 or 55 x 65 cm. When planting two tall per 1 m 2, when forming a bush, the first pinching is carried out after the plants have taken root behind the third true leaf. If 7-8 leaves form on the side shoots of the first order, the second pinching is done over the sixth leaf. The shoots on which the ovaries have formed and have reached a diameter of 5 cm are shortened, leaving 4-5 leaves above the ovary. Barren shoots are shortened over the third - fifth leaf. In large-sized film greenhouses, the optimal density is two plants per 1 m 2 with arbitrary formation of a bush without pinching at seedling age.

Seedlings of watermelons in large greenhouses are planted according to the scheme 70 x 70 cm. Plants are tied to a trellis. At an early age, they are not pinched, but only weak shoots are removed. With this planting scheme, 2-3 fruits are left on one plant. This operation is carried out when the ovary reaches a diameter of 5 - 7 cm. To accelerate the growth of the fruit, pinch the shoots, leaving five leaves above the fruit.

As noted by R. L. Borisova et al., in film greenhouses in the south of Ukraine and in the Crimea, the apical point of growth is not pinched at the seedlings of melons and watermelons. Seedlings are planted according to the scheme 70 x 70 cm. Deep holes are made in the landing sites, into which peat, humus or a compost mixture of peat, with humus, is introduced. Then they fill it with water and, as soon as it is absorbed by the soil, a pot with seedlings is placed at the bottom of the hole, which is covered with earth 1.5 - 2 cm above the soil level, forming a mound near the stem that will protect it from water during irrigation. If the peat humus pots are dense, then they are well moistened before planting, and during planting they are slightly squeezed by hand to make cracks in the pots, along which the roots will easily penetrate into the soil. After the plants have taken root, they are tied to a trellis with twine and, as the vegetative mass grows, they are formed. The main shoot, as noted, is not pinched, but the two lower lateral shoots of the first order are removed, since female flowers appear late on them. The next 3-4 shoots are spread on the surface of the soil and each one is pinched 2-3 leaves after the appearance of a female flower. Shoots on which female flowers did not form to the sixth or seventh node are removed, and the central stem is regularly tied to twine as it grows, without pinching. Lateral shoots of the first order of the middle
and the upper tiers of the trellis are pinched 2-3 leaves above the female flower. Rationing the ovaries accelerates the formation of the first fruits and improves their marketability and taste. The normal load on the plant is 4-5 fruits weighing 0.8-1.2 kg. During the cultivation of varieties with smaller fruits, the load of plants with ovaries is increased to 14-16 pcs. The fruits that form on the central stem, middle and upper lateral shoots are enclosed in mesh bags, which are suspended from the upper horizontal wire of the trellis or the frame of the greenhouse. Pieces of glass are placed under the fruits that form on shoots that creep along the surface of the soil in order to prevent them from rotting and being damaged by various pests.

Plants are watered moderately at first, and then gradually increase the watering rate. Melons are watered first after 3-4 days at the rate of 10 liters of water per 1 m 2, in cloudy weather - less often, in sunny weather - more often. It is necessary to water carefully with warm water, wetting only the soil, and leaving the stem and leaves dry. Therefore, watering is carried out along the furrows. After each watering, the soil is loosened. Optimal relative
air humidity 60 - 70%. During flowering, air humidity
somewhat increase refreshing watering. In hot weather
it is advisable to carry them out every other day. The fruits ripen better
in dry air. Watermelons are watered less frequently than melons because
excessive watering reduces sugar content, contributes to thickening
bark and the appearance of fungal diseases. The relative humidity of the air during the formation of watermelon fruits is maintained at the level
about 70%, and during their growth and maturation - 60%.

Plants of watermelons and melons during the growing season are fed 2-3 times with an interval of 8-10 days. The composition and doses of dressings depend on the content of mineral nutrients in the soil. The composition of the mixture for feeding melons: for 10 liters of water, take 25 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate, for feeding watermelons, respectively, 10, 50 and 30 g.

According to L. G. Shulgina, during the first feeding, 1 liter of solution is consumed per plant, during the next - 1.5 liters.

For pollination in a greenhouse, 10-15 days before the flowering of plants, hives with bees are brought in.

Ripened melon fruits are recognized by the change in color from green to yellow, the appearance of a characteristic aroma, and the ease with which the fruit separates from the stem. A watermelon is considered ripe, which has a dull sound after light tapping on it with a finger and a matte coating. The fruits of watermelons are cut, not plucked, so as not to damage the tops of the plant.

GROWING GOLUNS IN GREENHOUSES

In greenhouses, watermelons, melons and zucchini are most often grown as a second crop after growing seedlings of early and medium cabbage. Previously, in greenhouses or greenhouses, 25-30-day-old seedlings are grown in humus-earthen (humus to earth ratio 3: 1) or peat-humus (ratio - 3 hours peat, 1 hour sawdust and 0.5 hours liquid cow pus diluted in ratio 1:4) in pots The pots are 8x8 or 10x10 cm in size, one plant is left in them. Planting seedlings in a permanent place is carried out at the rate of two plants under the greenhouse frame. The soil layer in the greenhouse must be at least 25 cm. In greenhouses with electric and water heating, this layer is created without adding soil mixture. During the use of greenhouses with biological heating in the middle of the greenhouse frame where the plants will be planted, the soil mixture is removed to a width of 30 - 35 cm and placed next to it in the greenhouse, then I select biofuel in the groove to a depth of 10-15 cm, laying it on the paths, and the groove is covered soil mixture. The total thickness of the soil mixture in the groove zone should be 25 - 30 cm. Towards the northern and southern parubny, the thickness of the soil mixture is 10-12 cm. In case of a shortage of soil mixture, freshly prepared soil is added to it. The best soil mixture for growing melons and gourds is humus-earthen: for 2 hours of fresh soddy soil, 1 part of humus is added and 5-10% of river sand and mineral fertilizers are added to the mixture. After planting the seedlings, the temperature during the day is maintained at 25-30 ° C, and at night 18-20 ° C. Water moderately, with warm water, avoiding overmoistening of the soil, after 2-3 days, 4-5 liters each, and in dry and hot weather, 8-12 liters each. Water should be poured between the tops, preventing the root neck of the plants from soaking. During the flowering period, watering is temporarily limited for better formation of ovaries.

Greenhouses are periodically ventilated, and with the onset of warm weather, when the threat of frost passes, they open completely removing the frames. The frames are removed gradually so that the plants get used to the outside air and direct sunlight.

In the process of vegetation, infertile shoots are cut out from watermelon plants, and in fruitful shoots, a growth point is pinched above the second or third leaf above the ovary. 2-3 formed ovaries are left on the watermelon plant, and the excess ones are removed. In melons, pinching of the main stem is carried out above the fourth or fifth leaf, side shoots - above the fifth - seventh leaf and above the second or third leaf above the ovaries. On melon plants, 3-5 fruits are left.

Melon plants respond very well to top dressing. During the growing season, 3-4 fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers is carried out. Melons and zucchini are fed at the beginning of development with organic fertilizers, adding superphosphate and potassium chloride (Table 20). For optimal placement of the vegetative mass of plants and the formation of additional roots, when the shoots reach a length of 40-50 cm, they are pinned with wooden hooks 12-15 cm long at a distance of 25-30 cm from the root neck (always near the petiole of the leaf). The places of pinning are sprinkled with a moist soil mixture, which contributes to the formation of additional roots. To prevent the fruits from rotting, pieces of glass or thin boards are placed under them.

For growing in greenhouses, the most early-ripening varieties of watermelons and melons are used. Before the beginning of the receipt of fruits from the field in greenhouses, 4-6 kg of crop can be obtained from one frame.

GROWING GOLUNS IN WINTER GLAZED GREENHOUSES

The cultivation of watermelons and melons in winter glazed greenhouses, despite their rather valuable properties, is limited. The culture of watermelons and melons is possible both in soil and hydroponic greenhouses. Mostly watermelons and melons are grown in such greenhouses as compactors, sometimes as an independent crop.

Seedlings of watermelons and melons are grown for 30 - 35 days to form 4 - 5 true leaves on plants. The technology of growing seedlings is similar to that described in the section "Growing gourds in open soil". Growing seedlings for hydroponic greenhouses is associated with the use of polyethylene pots and a fine fraction (3 - 5 mm) of crushed granite. For low-volume cultivation, mineral wool cubes are used. During the cultivation of seedlings intended for early planting, additional artificial lighting is used.

High whimsicality to light determines the timing of growing watermelons and melons in winter greenhouses. In the third light zone, they are blown up to a permanent place at the end of February - at the beginning of March, in the conditions of the fourth and fifth light zones - in mid-February, in the sixth light zone - in secants.

To increase the resistance of melons and watermelons against diseases and increase productivity, they can be grafted onto a pumpkin. The vaccination is done in a split, and a few leaves are left on the undergraft, because after the vaccination, the graft is not able to assimilate all the necessary substances during the feather-bed period. Watermelon is grafted onto a table gourd (Lagenaria), melon - onto a large-fruited or fig-leaved pumpkin (C. figolia). Grafting watermelons and melons on a pumpkin speeds up fruiting at 3-4 weeks. This increases the sugar content of the fruit.

In block greenhouses with a link width of 6.4 m, melons are blown up in six rows following a 106 x 35 cm pattern, and watermelons in four rows following a 160 x 50 cm pattern.

In the case of growing watermelons and melons in winter greenhouses, attention is focused on maintaining optimal temperatures in the root environment at a level of about 25 ° C. The optimum air temperature for melons during the day during sunny hours should be 26 - 28 ° C, cloudy - 22 - 24 ° C, at night - 18 - 20 ° C, relative humidity - 60 - 70%; for watermelons, respectively, 24 - 26 ° C, 20-22, 17-18 ° C, 60-65%.

Before fruit set, plants are watered moderately, due to the tendency of plants to accelerate growth to the detriment of fruiting. Watering is intensified only with the beginning of the fruit filling, at the same time carrying out feeding. Watermelons are watered more moderately compared to melons.

In hydroponic greenhouses, before fruit set, the substrate is moistened once or twice a day so as not to stimulate the formation of stems and leaves and delay the fruiting process. During fruit filling, the substrate is moistened with a nutrient solution more often - up to 3-4 times a day, and during the period of fruit ripening - 2-3 times. With a moderate supply of moisture, sweeter fruits are formed.

For better pollination of gourds, beehives with bees are placed a week before the start of flowering of female flowers. Flowering begins 35 - 40 days after the explosion of seedlings. The period from flowering to the beginning of fruit ripening is 40-45 days, depending on the variety.

Plants of gourds are formed on a vertical trellis. The first pinching of melons is recommended to be carried out over the third leaf of the seedlings. After pinching, three shoots are formed on the plant, which, as they grow, are wrapped around the twine, directing them to the upper horizontal wire. The second time, the top of the shoots is pinched when the plants reach a height of 2-2.5 m. During this time, shoots of the third order are formed, as a rule, female flowers form on them. If their appearance is delayed, re-pinch the tops of the shoots of the second and part of the shoots of the third order. This contributes to the formation of shoots of the fourth order, on which female flowers appear.

Side shoots of the third order to a height of 80-100 cm are removed, which prevents the spreading of shoots on the soil surface.

After the ovaries with a diameter of C -4 cm are formed on the plants, some of them are removed, leaving in varieties with large fruits one fruit per shoot, and in small-fruited varieties - two fruits. The fruits are left by those that are closer to the main shoot. Weak, underdeveloped shoots are removed. The shoots on which the ovary is left are shortened over the fourth or fifth leaf above the ovary. To speed up the filling of fruits, it is recommended to stop the growth of young shoots by pinching their tops.

In watermelon plants, fruits begin to form on the main shoot, therefore, at the seedling age, the plants do not pinch and the main stem grows arbitrarily along a vertical trellis. In the future, the fruits are formed on the shoots of the second and next orders. During the rationing of fruits on one plant, 2-3 ovaries are left. The shoots on which the ovaries are left are pinched, leaving 4-5 leaves above each fruit and removing excess ovaries. The lower shoots, as in a tall din, are removed. Shoots are also removed that are poorly developed and those on which there are no ovaries.

In greenhouses, watermelons and melons are grown as tomato compactors. Plants are blown up together with the main crop through five or six rows at a distance of 70 - 80 cm from one another. Then they are tied to a vertical trellis. After the formation of the required number of fruits on the plants, the shoots are pinched, leaving 4-5 leaves above each fruit. The rest and all infertile shoots of the ovaries are removed. Fruits in nets are tied to a trellis - a stretched wire. Shoots of watermelons and melons, which occupy space above the main crop, create favorable temperature conditions in the spring and summer months, protecting plants from overheating during high temperatures.

The yield of watermelons and melons as sealing plants is 0.6 - 0.8 kg/m2.

And open ground is not fraught with great difficulties. Some summer residents refuse to plant gourds, considering it inappropriate to occupy a large area of the site. Meanwhile, these crops get along well together and give an excellent harvest, subject to certain rules. In a compact garden plot, it is not necessary to allocate a separate place for melons and watermelons, they can be planted side by side and enjoy juicy sweet fruits.

Seed treatment before planting

Seed material is planted in peat forms at the end of April. Before sowing, it is advisable to warm the seeds well indoors or near a heating device. It is also recommended to soak them in warm water and disinfect in one of the solutions:

hydrogen peroxide solution is prepared at the rate of 10 tablets per liter of water;
a weak solution of manganese or boron 0.05% concentration;
"Epin extra", the stimulant is diluted as follows: 6 drops of bioadditives per 100 ml of water;
"Zircon", the solution is prepared at the rate of 2-4 drops of liquid per liter of water.

Treatment with biostimulants will not only destroy pathogens, but also allow plants to adapt to temperature disasters, and also increase crop yields. Soaking is carried out in a cotton bag, which is dipped in heated (about 60 °) water, the liquid is allowed to drain and left for a day. During this time, the seeds should swell and crack a little. If this did not happen, planting them in the ground does not make sense: the culture will turn out to be weak. When planting, 2 seeds are placed in each mold, in the future this will allow you to remove a weaker branch.

Simultaneous soaking and warming the seeds is the best preparation for seedlings. Melons are watered only with water at room temperature, while making sure that it does not irrigate the leaves. Seedlings of gourds are quite capricious and require good lighting, warmth and careful watering.

Special soil is sold in stores, but you can cook it yourself. To do this, mineral fertilizer "Kemira universal" is added to suitable soil. For each pot, 1 teaspoon is enough, then the earth is well mixed. Seeds are buried to a depth of 2-3 cm and watered. Under favorable conditions, the first shoots appear on the 5-6th day, and after a week you can see the first leaf.

Planting gourds in covered ground is carried out at the end of May. By this time, the soil will already warm up enough, and frosts will not damage the root system. Previously, young plants are recommended to be hardened, for this they are taken out into the street at a temperature of 13-15 degrees or the air in the room is cooled to these figures. The best age of seedlings for planting is approximately 25-30 days.

Before planting, the soil is covered with plastic wrap, in which holes for peat containers are cut. This allows not only to protect heat-loving crops from low temperatures, but also increases productivity. Fertilizers are additionally added to the wells: humus, ash or mineral additives. From above, the nutrients are covered with a layer of earth.

The greenhouse should maintain optimal temperature and light conditions. The temperature during the day should be 20-25°, and at night - 15-18°. Water moderately and infrequently with warm water. To prevent condensation, the greenhouse must be periodically ventilated. Watermelons and melons are quite sensitive to excess moisture, their seedlings can rot, and the fruits themselves grow watery and tasteless. If it gets colder outside, you should cover the soil and young shoots with a film, cotton cloth or paper.

At the time of planting gourds in the greenhouse, you can have time to harvest young cabbage, early radishes and greens. This will not only additionally warm the soil, but also save space.

Boarding order

The scheme of planting in open ground is as follows. The distance between plants should be 40-50 cm for watermelons and 50-60 cm for melons. When grown together in a greenhouse, watermelons and melons are planted in a checkerboard pattern. Peat containers are buried shallowly in the ground, there should be a gap of about 3 cm between the leaves and the ground. This trick will further protect the plant from disease and decay.

When planting, the scheme and the distance between the rows are taken into account. It is usually recommended to plant in 2 rows, between which a piece of land 50 cm wide is left. The next planting of melons in the ground is carried out at a distance of 80 cm from the first rows.

Care for melons in the greenhouse

Caring for watermelons and melons is not particularly difficult and not too laborious. Young shoots can be covered with cut plastic bottles, this protective frame allows you to increase the yield. As the plant grows, the bottle is removed or replaced with a higher shelter. When the stem has grown sufficiently in length, it is attached to a special support - a trellis, you can tie the top with a thread to the ceiling of the greenhouse. Heavy fruits are placed in nets, cardboard boxes. The main thing is that they do not come into contact with the ground.

7-10 days after planting, you can feed with nitrogen fertilizer - urea or nitrate, for this, 20 grams of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water.

Caring for gourds consists in loosening the soil, watering and top dressing. It is necessary to ensure that after planting, weeds do not appear between the sprouts. Young plants are watered once a week, then it is allowed to do this twice a month.

Watermelons and melons are drought-resistant crops, they germinate in the southern regions, where the absence of rain for a long time is considered normal. When the first fruits appear, watering is stopped. Irrigate melons should be carefully, making sure that water does not get on the root part of the stem. Otherwise, the culture may be damaged by rot.

Every 2-3 weeks, the soil should be fertilized with mullein infusion and minerals. During feeding, a small handful of ash can be added to each well.

Artificial pollination in a greenhouse is carried out by a male flower, it is determined by its impressive size. The flower is plucked and applied to female flowers. Before pollination, the crop should not be watered so that excess moisture does not affect the quality of the pollen. Many gardeners attract bees to pollination: they open the doors of the greenhouse, put saucers with sugar syrup.

plant formation

As they grow, the stems are bred in different directions. In the future, they are tied to wooden or metal trellises.

To teach a good harvest, you must follow the rules.

On melons stop the apical part of the stem. This procedure will be sufficient for early ripening varieties. Late-ripening varieties of melon are docked differently. In addition to removing the top, the side parts are also examined, their thickness and power are estimated. Young lashes are removed, leaving 3-4 strong branches.
With watermelons will have to tinker. The cultivation of this culture is carried out in one stem, it is chosen according to the presence of shoots in the leaf axils. The stems on which there is no ovary are removed, the rest are pinched. When the culture grows above the size of the trellis, the apical lash is re-pinched at the level of the 4-5th leaf.

Features of growing in open ground

Before planting plants in open ground, you should decide on a place. Watermelons and melons prefer to grow in somewhat elevated flat areas that are well warmed up and illuminated by the sun's rays. Here they grow better, fruit abundantly and ripen early.

Care is carried out by loosening the soil, removing weeds and excess lashes. In the process of growth, several inter-row tillage is carried out. The first - when young leaves appear, to a depth of 6-8 cm, the second - when 5-6 true leaves appear, loosening can be combined with top dressing.

Harvest watermelons and melons as they ripen. The ripeness of watermelons is determined by the drying of the tendrils in the axils of the leaves, the disappearance of haze and the appearance of shine, and the lightening of the skin of the fruit. If you knock on a watermelon, there is a dull sound, but to distinguish it, you need to have practical skills.

The ripeness of a melon is determined by the dried stalk.

Are melons compatible?

Is it possible to plant watermelons and melons side by side? These crops consume similar chemicals from the soil and need roughly the same processing methods. If you plant them side by side, this will greatly simplify the care procedures: watering, garter, bait. However, melons and gourds greatly impoverish the soil, and they can be planted in the same place only after a few years. To prevent this, watermelons and melons should be regularly fed with mineral fertilizers.

It is not recommended to collect seeds from watermelons and melons when they are planted together, since mutual pollination occurs. The result of such a hybrid may not be entirely palatable.

If you are the owner of a large plot of land, it is better to plant these crops in open ground in different places in the garden. If the plot is small, then they can be planted nearby, nothing bad will happen. The proximity of melons to each other will not affect the yield.

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