The foundation is an important component of any structure, the quality and stability of which determines the durability of the building as a whole. Why use insulation? The base is exposed to many negative factors - one of them is moisture, which destroys the structure. Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the foundation, performed competently according to technology, will help to cope with this trouble.
There are two types of moisture that affect the base:
- melt water and precipitation falling into the ground from the outside;
- bottom waters, their level is changeable, depending on the season.
What waterproofing to choose for the foundation? The base is selected based on the type of base and material; the slab and column support are protected from moisture in different ways.
It acts on the base in several ways:
- if aggressive components are present in the bottom or rain moisture, then potholes and flaws caused by washing out of solid particles may appear in the body of the base;
- collapses from freezing of the moisture which has got into a basis material. The only element in nature that expands when exposed to sub-zero temperatures is water. Penetrating into micropores, it exerts a strong load on the base from the inside, as a result - cracks, crevices, gaps;
- washing away the soil with water leads to skew and subsidence of the structure, which can lead to the destruction of the walls.
Now it becomes clear why waterproofing the base is needed. For this reason, it is necessary to isolate the base as soon as the structure is ready.
Types of applied insulation
Three groups of arrangements for protecting the constructed foundation from groundwater can be distinguished:
- horizontal waterproofing of the foundation inside the house;
- creating a blind area.
Foundation waterproofing materials for the arrangement are different. There are such foundations that several types of protection are used in combination to protect them at once:
- Cut-off foundation waterproofing is used for foundations on pillars and strip foundations.
- Horizontal foundation waterproofing - suitable for all types of foundations. With its help limit the impact of moisture in the interlevel space. This insulation is made from different materials, depending on the construction budget.
- A blind area is constructed to protect the base from rain or melt water. It is advisable to make the structure wide enough, otherwise moisture will penetrate to the base, and put an additional load on other types of insulation.
Horizontal and vertical waterproofing
These two types of base protection should be disassembled separately, the materials for waterproofing the foundation are very different from those used in the construction of the blind area.
The insulation of the buried part of the support is carried out by several types of protection:
- by coating;
- pasting;
- plastering;
- penetrating compounds;
- made with the help of installation;
- structural;
You need to understand what waterproofing materials for foundations to use for a certain type of foundations and how horizontal foundation waterproofing is constructed.
Coating method in isolation
Coating waterproofing of the foundation is carried out with bitumen-based mastics. Two-component and one-component compositions are used to coat the part of the base located in the ground and the walls of the building. In addition, many new, modern and high-quality insulating materials have recently appeared:
- resins based on polymers and bitumen-polymer;
- bitumen and rubber mastics.
Thanks to additives in bitumen, the material tolerates low temperatures well, and does not crack like ordinary bitumen when frozen. The disadvantage of modern materials is the high cost, so private developers use the base of the house as insulation.
Okleyechnaya
How to waterproof the foundation with gluing compounds? A demanded and frequently used type of protection is the use of various materials in rolls mounted on a binder layer of bitumen, such as hydrostekloizol. Pasting protection is equipped in two ways - by gluing or fusing.
Fused waterproofing involves the use of a gas burner, with which the top layer will be heated to a viscous state, after which the material is glued to the base plane. If there is no adhesive base on the roll insulation, then mastic is used as a binder from the outside. You need to choose the right material.
Before equipping the insulation, the surface is primed.
Adhesive materials are:
- roofing - is considered an obsolete material for insulation, but is still widely used. Due to its low cost and the ability to quickly recover in case of damage. This is cardboard, the surface of which is treated with bitumen;
- glassine is a good waterproofing material based on thick construction cardboard, treated on both sides with bitumen. It cannot be said that this is a reliable insulation, but the cost of a roll coating allows you to save;
- roofing material is the leader among insulating materials, good insulating characteristics and affordable price make the material in demand among developers. But it is worth noting that the service life is short;
- materials based on polymers, with bituminous impregnation at the base of which fiberglass or polyester is used. There are several common insulation options: Gidrostekloizol, Linocom, Technokol, Bikrost, and so on.
The most reliable options for foundation waterproofing are the materials listed in the last list, but often their use entails additional costs. Hydrostekloizol is especially in demand, its technical characteristics and the latest technologies in production make it possible to insulate the foundation inside an old house for a period of 30 years.
But it is worth noting that these materials serve for a long time, which allows you to save on the frequency of repairs. Another positive point is the ability to apply hydrostekloizol for any building materials:
- metal;
- concrete;
- wood;
- asphalt concrete;
- gidrostekloizol is used for repeated and restoration of waterproofing without dismantling the old coating.
Plaster protection
Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the foundation on piles using plastering or painting is impractical and unreliable. Such insulation serves only five years, after which repair work will have to be carried out.
Insulation with penetrating compounds
An excellent way to treat the base to protect the base from moisture, penetrating foundation waterproofing is able to clog all the pores of the concrete, while increasing the resistance of the material to the effects of a humid environment. Usually this protection is used in combination with other types of insulation - gluing or coating. Mining was previously used as a penetrating waterproofing.
The penetration depth of the insulation reaches 25 cm, but more expensive materials are buried by a meter. The disadvantage of this method is the limitation in use - it is only suitable for concrete bases.
There are the most popular compositions that are used to process the foundation for waterproofing:
- "Penecrete";
- "Penaplag";
- "Hydrohit";
- "Penotron".
This insulation is most effective on new builds as the surface must be clean, free of grease and level.
Recently, many construction companies offer such a service as waterproofing the foundation with polyurea. This is an innovation in the arrangement of the insulation of supports, produced by spraying, and guarantees high-quality protection.
Mounted insulation
This isolation method is used when the bottom water level is high and exerts a lot of pressure on the base. Equip on foundations of tape type with. Various materials are used for mounted protection, for example, sheet steel, which is sheathed on the inside of the base. The metal should be 6 mm thick. This method is used very rarely, due to the high cost.
From the outside, brickwork is erected along the perimeter of the foundation.
It is erected after carrying out insulation work by coating or pasting methods. In this situation, the waterproofing between the foundation and the masonry will be protected from mechanical damage.
Structural waterproofing of the foundation slab is the addition of special insulating additives directly to the concrete. It is used very rarely due to the high cost, so it is better to choose more economical materials.
Injection isolation
This method is used for injecting foundations that are in operation when repairing the waterproofing of the foundation is needed. This technology contributes to the protection of the base from the effects of moisture, without developing soil around the perimeter. Injectors are brought to the base, which are able to deliver insulating material.
The following compositions are used:
- resin;
- rubber;
- foam;
- acrylate gel;
- polymers;
- cement mortars.
This method involves the use of special equipment and a professional approach, so it is impossible to do injection insulation with your own hands. But at the same time, you can easily waterproof the existing foundation of an old house.
The arrangement of the blind area
In the case of using external waterproofing to protect the base, the following materials are used:
- sidewalk tile;
- concrete;
- diffusion membrane for foundation waterproofing;
- asphalt concrete.
The choice of material for arranging the blind area depends on the foundation, the availability of material, financial capabilities, the preferences of the owners and the design of the building. If we are talking about savings, then the best option would be laying asphalt or concrete. Typically, this option is used to protect foundations in apartment buildings, industrial facilities and administrative buildings.
Builders advise for private houses to use a waterproofing membrane for the foundation, as it is the most reliable protection option.
Technological features of waterproofing of different types of bases
Different types of building foundations require separate types of insulation. Before pouring, you need to determine what measures to perform for high-quality waterproofing.
Strip base insulation
For prefabricated and monolithic options, the waterproofing of the strip foundation has distinctive features. The prefabricated view of the base requires the following actions:
- waterproofing of the foundation slab of industrial production and the concrete walls of the basement require the arrangement of a high-quality, reinforced seam joint;
- waterproofing of the foundation walls with rolled material is laid from the first seam located at the lower level of the basement flooring;
- at the joints of the foundation structure and walls, along the edge of the foundation, insulating material is mounted;
- external waterproofing of the foundation of the buried part is carried out in a vertical way;
- blind area installation.
Bituminous waterproofing of the foundation is not used to isolate the joints, as it can lead to displacements of the structural elements of the foundation. In this case, you need to mount a full-fledged, thickened concrete seam.
The edge of the foundation is insulated to fully protect the base material from destruction under the influence of moisture. The foundation is waterproofing pasting, performed with roll materials, pasting type.
Vertical waterproofing of the new strip foundation is carried out along the outer perimeter of the building, this helps to protect not only the support structure, but also the interior of the basement.
Coating and pasting waterproofing of the foundation can be used. The inner side is isolated during finishing work, it is permissible to use an injection and penetrating type of protection.
For waterproofing a monolithic tape, the following measures are needed:
- vertical protection;
- insulation of the edge of the base;
- arrangement of the blind area.
The sequence of work is carried out in the same order as when protecting the prefabricated type of base.
Pile and column foundation - waterproofing
These types of bases do not require complex isolation from the influences of a humid environment. The main work will consist only in measures to protect the edge of the foundation, with a priming solution. The main attention should be paid to the grillage, the location of the waterproofing depends on the material of its manufacture.
If the grillage and supports are monolithic, then the protection is laid at the points of contact between the walls and the base. If a basement is equipped, then it is waterproofed from the outside and from the inside from groundwater.
When using a screw base, on the pillars, which immediately fit the first row of a wooden house, the insulation is equipped with waterproofing between the foundation and the wall.
Slab foundation protection
Do you need moisture? The answer is yes. For quality protection, you need to provide the following:
- footing made of depleted concrete, for isolating the slab support from bottom waters;
- waterproofing of the footing, it is treated with mastic;
- external waterproofing.
When arranging the second layer of the slab, it is necessary to carry out high-quality insulation using the most modern materials. It should be understood that as the waterproofing under the foundation slab will be incorrect, it will be impossible to restore the waterproofing of the foundation when it is destroyed.
If the building is small and has a low specific gravity, you can use a simple bifold polyethylene film, which is laid on the footing.
After the plate is ready, it is worth taking care of its external insulation using roll material. Particular attention should be paid to the connections of the base and walls of the house.
Now you understand how to properly waterproof the foundation.
In custody
To the question of whether it is necessary to waterproof the foundation or not, you can safely answer - yes, it is necessary to carry out work on arranging the protection of the support from moisture. Which waterproofing is better to protect the foundation from the inside can only be determined by studying all the rules for the arrangement and the material from which the building support is made.
A distinctive feature of the tape type foundation lies in its very name. It is a closed circuit - a "tape" (a reinforced concrete strip laid under the bearing walls). Through the use of a strip foundation, the resistance to the forces of heaving soil increases, while the risk of warping or subsidence of the building is minimized.
Strip foundation - photo of a freshly poured structure
It is this foundation that is built on dry or heaving soils. Moreover, the greater the weight of the future structure, the deeper the foundation is laid (sometimes even up to 3 m, depending on the depth of soil freezing and the level of groundwater).
These and other characteristics are regulated by GOST 13580-85 and SNiP 2.02.01.83.
GOST 13580-85. REINFORCED CONCRETE PLATES OF BELT FOUNDATIONS. Specifications. Download file
SNiP 2.02.01-83. FOUNDATIONS OF BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES. Download file
During construction, special attention is paid to waterproofing, since the strength, quality and durability of the structure will depend on it. In the absence of protection, groundwater and precipitation can significantly damage concrete, and the consequences can be the saddest - from permanent dampness to subsidence and cracking of walls. For this reason, do-it-yourself waterproofing of the strip foundation is one of the most critical stages.
Waterproofed foundation - photo
Below is the average depth of soil freezing in different regions. If your region is not in the table, then you need to focus on the one that is closest to the others.
Regardless of the chosen method of isolation (they will be discussed a little later), a number of technical requirements must be followed in the work.
- Be sure to take into account the level of groundwater, because the type of insulation depends on it.
- It is also necessary to take into account the conditions for the future operation of the facility (if, for example, a warehouse is being built, then the requirements for waterproofing will be more stringent).
- It is also necessary to remember about the possibility of flooding during large floods or precipitation (this applies in particular to loose soil).
- The force of "swelling" of the soil during frost also plays an important role (during defrosting / freezing, the structure and volume of water change, which can lead not only to the rise of the soil, but also to the destruction of the foundation).
The main methods of waterproofing
Waterproofing can be of two types - vertical and horizontal. Let's consider each of the options.
Important information! When constructing the foundation, you do not need to save money and abandon the sand "cushion". Sand is needed not only to prevent leakage of concrete, but also to prevent washing out of the structure.
It is performed even during the construction of the foundation, and additional time (15-17 days) may be required for preparatory measures. The main function of such insulation is to protect the base in the horizontal plane (mainly from capillary groundwater). An important component of horizontal waterproofing is the drainage system, which is equipped with a high level of groundwater.
It is worth noting that under the "tape" there should be a sufficiently strong base, on top of which a waterproofing layer will be laid. Often, a “cushion” of a slightly larger width is cast for this than that of the future foundation. In the absence of a need for high quality (for example, if the foundation is being built for a bath), it is enough to prepare a screed of sand and cement in a ratio of 2: 1. In Soviet times, asphalt screed was made, but today this technology is practically not used.
The horizontal waterproofing procedure consists of several stages.
Stage 1. The bottom of the pit, dug under the base, is covered with a sandy "cushion" about 20-30 cm thick (clay can be used instead of sand) and carefully compacted.
Stage 3. When the screed dries (it takes about 12-14 days), it is covered with bituminous mastic and a layer of roofing material is fixed. Then the procedure is repeated: applying mastic - fastening the roofing material. On top of the second layer, another screed of the same thickness is poured.
Stage 4. When the concrete hardens, the construction of the foundation itself begins, the surfaces of which are additionally covered with vertical types of waterproofing (they will be discussed later).
Important information! If the building will be built from a log house, then it is necessary to waterproof the top of the foundation as well, since the first crown will be installed there. Otherwise, the wood may rot.
Drainage
Drainage may be required in two cases:
- if the permeability of the soil is low and water accumulates rather than being absorbed by it;
- if the depth of the foundation is lower or corresponds to the depth of the groundwater.
The algorithm of actions for the arrangement of the drainage system should be as follows.
Stage 1. Along the perimeter of the structure - about 80-100 cm from the foundation - a small pit 25-30 cm wide is dug. The depth should exceed the depth of pouring the base by 20-25 cm. It is important that the pit has a slight slope in the direction of the water collector, where water will accumulate.
Stage 2. The bottom is covered with geotextile, while the edges of the material must be wrapped on the walls by at least 60 cm. After that, a 5-centimeter layer of gravel is poured.
Stage 3. A special drainage pipe is installed on top with a slope towards the water collector of 0.5 cm / 1 linear meter. m.
Laying pipes on geotextiles and backfilling crushed stone
Thanks to this design, water will flow into the drainage pipe, while it (pipe) will not become clogged. Moisture will be discharged into the water collector (it can be a well or a pit, and the dimensions depend on the inflow of water and are determined on an individual basis).
Prices for a drainage well
drainage well
Vertical waterproofing
Vertical type insulation is the processing of the walls of the finished foundation. There are several ways to protect the base, which are possible both during the construction of the building and after construction.
Table. Strengths and weaknesses of the most popular waterproofing options
| Material | Operational period | Ease of repair | Elasticity | Strength | Cost, per m² |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5 to 10 years | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★★ | ★★☆☆☆ | About 680 rubles | |
| Polyurethane mastic | 50 to 100 years old | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★★ | ★★☆☆☆ | About 745 rubles |
| Rolled bituminous materials | 20 to 50 years old | ★☆☆☆☆ | - | ★☆☆☆☆ | About 670 rubles |
| Polymer membranes (PVC, TPO, etc.) | 50 to 100 years old | - | ★☆☆☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | About 1300 rubles |
Inexpensive and simple, and therefore the most popular way to waterproof the foundation. It implies complete processing with bituminous mastic, penetrating into all cracks and voids and preventing moisture from entering the house.
Important information! When choosing one or another bituminous mastic, pay attention to the marking - this will help you find out the heat resistance of the material. For example, mastic marked MBK-G-65 has a heat resistance (for five hours) of 65°C, and MBK-G-100 - 100°C, respectively.
Advantages of bituminous mastic:
- ease of use (can be done alone);
- affordable cost;
- elasticity.
Flaws:
- low speed of work (requires the application of several layers, which takes a lot of time);
- not the best water resistance (even high-quality application does not guarantee 100% protection);
- fragility (in 10 years you will have to re-treat the foundation).
The process of applying mastic is extremely simple and consists of several stages.
Stage 1. Surface preparation. Below are the basic requirements.
- The surface of the foundation must be solid, with chamfered or rounded (ø40-50 mm) edges and corners. Fillets are made at the transition points of the vertical to the horizontal - so the joined surfaces will be mated more smoothly.
- For bitumen, sharp protrusions are extremely dangerous, appearing where the formwork elements are joined. These protrusions are removed.
- Concrete areas covered with shells from air bubbles are rubbed with a fine-grained cement mortar based on a dry building mix. Otherwise, bubbles will appear in the freshly applied mastic, which will burst 10 minutes after application.
Also, dirt and dust should be removed from the surface, and then dried thoroughly.
Important information! Substrate moisture is a very important indicator and should not exceed 4%. At a higher value, the mastic will swell or begin to flake off.
Testing the base for moisture is quite simple: you need to lay a piece of PE film measuring 1x1 m on the concrete surface. And if there is no condensation on the film in a day, then you can safely proceed to further work.
Stage 2. In order to increase adhesion, the prepared base is primed with a bituminous primer.
You can go the other way and prepare a bitumen primer yourself. To do this, BN70/30 grade bitumen must be diluted with a rapidly evaporating solvent (for example, gasoline) in a ratio of 1:3.
One layer of primer is applied over the entire surface, two at the junction. This can be done with either a brush or a roller. After the primer dries, the actual mastic is applied.
Stage 3. The bitumen bar is broken into small pieces and melted in a bucket over a fire.
It is recommended to add a small amount of “mining” there during heating. Then liquid bitumen is applied in 3-4 layers. It is important that the material does not cool down in the container, because with one more heating, it partially loses its properties.
The total thickness of the waterproofing layer depends on the depth of the base pour (see table).
Table. The ratio of the thickness of the bitumen layer to the depth of the foundation
Stage 4. After drying, the bitumen should be protected, since it can be damaged when backfilled with soil containing debris. To do this, you can use rolled geotextiles or EPPS insulation.
Prices for bituminous mastic
bituminous mastic
Video - Insulation of the EPPS foundation
Reinforcement
Bituminous insulation needs reinforcement on:
- cold seams;
- junction of surfaces;
- cracks in concrete, etc.
Often, fiberglass and fiberglass are used for reinforcement.
The fiberglass material must be sunk into the first layer of bitumen and rolled with a roller - this will provide a tighter abutment. As soon as the mastic dries, the next layer is applied. It is important that the fiberglass material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm on both sides.
Reinforcement will provide a more uniform distribution of the load on the entire insulating strip, minimize bitumen elongation in the places of opened cracks and, as a result, significantly extend the service life.
fiberglass prices
fiberglass
It can serve as both the main protection and addition to the applied bituminous mastic. Usually ruberoid is used for this.
Among the advantages of the method should be highlighted:
- low cost;
- availability;
- good service life (about 50 years).
As for the shortcomings, this can only be attributed to the fact that one cannot cope with the work alone. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.
Stage 1.
Unlike the previous method, there is no need to carefully apply the material, since the mastic is needed solely for attaching the rolled waterproofing to the base.
Stage 2. Using a burner, the roofing material is slightly heated from below, after which it is superimposed on a layer of hot bitumen. Sheets of roofing material are joined with an overlap of 10-15 cm, all joints are processed with a burner.
Stage 3. After fixing the roofing material, you can fill up the foundation, because additional protection is not required here.
Important information! Roofing material can be replaced with more modern materials that are welded onto the base. These can be polymer films or canvases with bitumen-polymer coating (for example, Izoelast, Technoelast, etc.).
Prices for roofing material
ruberoid
Video - Waterproofing with roofing material
This method is extremely simple to perform and is used for waterproofing and leveling the foundation surface. Here advantages of plaster waterproofing:
- simplicity;
- high speed of work;
- affordable cost of materials.
Flaws:
- low water resistance;
- short service life (about 15 years);
- possible cracks.
There is nothing complicated in the application process. First, a putty mesh is attached to the foundation with the help of dowels, then a plaster mixture with hydro-resistant components is prepared. The mixture is applied to the foundation with a spatula. After the plaster has dried, the soil is poured.
In fact, this is a dispersion of polymer-modified bitumen particles in water. The composition is sprayed onto the base, providing high-quality waterproofing. Advantages this method are as follows:
- high quality waterproofing;
- no need for special skills;
- durability.
But there is also limitations:
- high cost of the composition;
- low speed of operation in the absence of a sprayer.
In addition, liquid rubber is not available everywhere. For the foundation, the same type of composition, which can be of two types, is quite suitable.
- Elastomix - applied in 1 layer, hardens for about 2 hours. Further storage after opening the package is not subject to.
- Elastopaz is a cheaper option, but it is already applied in 2 layers. What is characteristic, Elastopaz is subject to storage even after opening the package.
Stage 1. The surface is cleaned of dirt and debris.
Stage 2. The foundation is covered with a special primer. Alternatively, a mixture of liquid rubber and water (1:1 ratio) can be used.
Stage 3. After an hour, when the primer dries, a waterproofing material is applied (one or two layers, depending on the type of composition). It is advisable to use a sprayer for this, but you can use a roller or brush instead.
liquid rubber prices
liquid rubber
Video - Processing the base with liquid rubber
Penetrating insulation
On the base, previously cleaned of dirt and slightly moistened with water, a special mixture (Penetron, Aquatro, etc.) is applied with a sprayer, penetrating into the structure by about 150 mm. It is important that the solution is applied in two or three layers.
Main Benefits:
- effective protection;
- the possibility of processing surfaces inside the building;
- ease of operation;
- long operational period.
Flaws:
- low prevalence of such solutions;
- high price.
Making a clay castle
A simple, but at the same time effective way to protect the base from moisture. First, a foundation pit is dug around the foundation with a depth of 0.5-0.6 m, then the bottom is covered with a 5-centimeter gravel or crushed stone "cushion". After that, clay is poured in several stages (each layer is carefully compacted). The clay itself will act as a buffer against moisture.
The only advantage of the method is the ease of implementation.
Clay castle is suitable only for wells and household facilities. If, for example, we are talking about a residential building, then this method can only be used as an addition to the already existing waterproofing.
This method of protecting the base appeared relatively recently and is as follows: mats filled with clay are nailed to the cleaned surface of the foundation using a mounting gun or dowels. The laying of mats should overlap, by about 12-15 cm. Sometimes special clay concrete panels are used instead of mats, then the joints in this case must be further processed.
Overlap - photo
In principle, screen insulation is an improved version of a clay castle, therefore it can only be used for household structures.
Summing up. Which option to choose?
The optimal option for waterproofing a strip foundation should include both horizontal and vertical waterproofing. If, for one reason or another, horizontal insulation was not laid during construction, it is better to resort to bituminous mastic or special plaster. But, we repeat, it will be most effective only in combination with horizontal type protection.
The foundation is the foundation of the house. The durability of the entire structure as a whole depends on its strength and safety. The foundation is affected by rain, groundwater and capillary water, as a result of which it sags and deforms. Concrete tends to pick up moisture well, which, rising up through the capillaries, penetrates the walls and floor, providing ideal conditions for the growth of mold and other fungi. Also important is the problem associated with the operation of concrete foundations in a continental climate, where freezing and thawing of water occurs annually. Water penetrating into the pores of concrete, which freezes and thaws inside, leads to the destruction of the integrity of the foundation. To protect your structure from the destructive effects of water, timely waterproofing of the foundation is required. Waterproofing measures taken at the construction stage will ensure the safety of the house. If you are still tormented by doubts whether to do or not to do, keep in mind that in the future, repairing the foundation will cost more than building a box at home, and it’s not worth talking about the laboriousness and complexity of the work.
The main load-bearing element of the house requires extremely close attention at all stages of construction, from calculations and installation to work on hydro and thermal insulation. To say that do-it-yourself waterproofing of the foundation is a simple matter, it means to be cunning. The technology itself requires certain knowledge and understanding of the processes occurring in the soil and in concrete, as well as in various waterproofing materials. Experience is also of no small importance, therefore, before waterproofing the foundation, it does not hurt to consult a specialist and take into account his recommendations.
The first thing to do is to decide on a set of measures for waterproofing. For this, a number of starting conditions should be taken into account:
- The level of occurrence of groundwater;
- The force of "swelling" of the soil in the post-frost period;
- Soil heterogeneity;
- building conditions.
If the maximum groundwater level is more than 1 m below the base of the foundation, then it will be enough to perform a coating of vertical waterproofing and horizontal using roofing material.
If the groundwater level is higher than 1 m from the base of the foundation, but does not reach the level of the basement or reaches it extremely rarely, then for high-quality waterproofing the set of measures will have to be expanded. Perform horizontal waterproofing in two layers with mastic between them. For vertical insulation, both the coating method and the pasting with rolled materials should be used. Depending on the budget planned for materials for waterproofing the foundation, it is possible to additionally treat all concrete elements of the foundation and basement with penetrating waterproofing, which stops the movement of water through the capillaries.
If the groundwater level is above the base of the foundation and the level of the basement floor, or the area in which the house is built is famous for frequent and heavy rainfall, which seeps into the ground for a long time and is difficult, then in addition to the previous list of measures, it is necessary to equip a drainage system around the entire house.
For waterproofing the foundation, the price will depend on the surface area that needs to be processed, on the set of measures, the type and quantity of waterproofing materials. In the easiest case, you will have to spend money only on bitumen. And in the most difficult - at the same time on materials for coating, roll, penetrating waterproofing and on the arrangement of drainage or a pressure wall.
For a tape and monolithic (solid) foundation, horizontal waterproofing is carried out in two places:
- At the level or lower by 15 - 20 cm of the level of the basement floor;
- In the basement and at the junction of the foundation with the wall.
Important! Horizontal waterproofing can only be done at the stage of building a house, so take care of it in time.
Before starting all work on arranging the foundation and basement, it is necessary to fill the bottom of the pit with greasy clay with a layer of 20 - 30 cm, and then carefully compact it. Concrete is poured from above with a layer of 5 - 7 cm. It is necessary in order to equip the waterproofing under the foundation. Before laying the waterproofing, the concrete must be dry and well set for at least 10 to 15 days. Next, the concrete is carefully coated with bituminous mastic over the entire area, and the first layer of roofing material is laid on it. Then the surface is again coated with mastic and another layer of roofing material is laid. A 5-7 cm layer of concrete is poured on top, which must be leveled and ironed.
Important! Ironing also refers to measures that provide waterproofing. It is done according to this technology: cement, sifted through a fine sieve, is poured on top of freshly poured concrete after 2 - 3 hours with a layer of 1 - 2 cm. Then it flattens out. After some time, the cement should get wet from the moisture contained in the concrete. Further, the surface is treated in the same way as with a conventional concrete screed - from time to time it is moistened with water until the concrete reaches strength and dries.
After completing the arrangement of the strip or pile foundation, it must also be waterproofed so that moisture does not rise up into the walls. To do this, the surface is opened with bituminous mastic, and roofing material or other rolled material is laid on top. The procedure is performed twice to get two layers. The edges of the roll material hanging from the foundation are not cut off, but wound down and then pressed against the vertical waterproofing.
Drainage system device
Depending on the level of groundwater and the structure of the soil, the foundation waterproofing device may require the mandatory presence of a drainage system that will collect and drain excess atmospheric and groundwater into a separate well. Basically, such a need arises with high groundwater and poor soil permeability.
To equip the drainage system, it is necessary to dig a trench along the perimeter of the object at a distance of at least 0.7 m from it. The depth depends on the level of the water table. Width - 30 - 40 cm. The trenches should be located with a slight slope towards the collecting well or pit. We lay geotextiles at the bottom, wrapping the edges on the sides of the trench by 80 - 90 cm. We fill in gravel or crushed stone with a layer of 5 cm along the entire length of the trench. Then we lay perforated drainage pipes with a slope of 0.5 cm for each linear m. We fill the gravel with a layer of 20 - 30 cm, after washing it so as not to clog the pipes. Then we wrap everything in the remaining edges of the geotextile. We bring the pipes into the collecting well. We fall asleep with soil.
The drainage system can be completed after the construction of the house is completed, or even after some time during operation, if such a need is identified.
Foundation vertical waterproofing
To perform waterproofing of the vertical surface of the foundation, you can use various materials, combining them with each other. From the options below, you can use one or more at once, depending on the individual conditions of construction.
The cheapest option to this day is the coating waterproofing of the foundation using bituminous resin. To do this, we buy bitumen, most often it is sold in bars.
Pour 30% used oil and 70% bitumen into a large container (pot, bucket, vat). The container must be heated, for this we make a fire under it or put it on a gas stove. When the bitumen is heated to the state of a liquid mixture, you can begin to apply it to the surface, which must be pre-leveled.
With a roller or brush, we apply bitumen to the surface of the foundation, trying to coat everything thoroughly. We begin to coat from the very sole of the foundation and finish at 15 - 20 cm above the soil surface. We apply 2 - 3 layers of bitumen so that the total thickness is 3 - 5 cm.
Important! All this time, the container with bitumen must be hot so that it does not freeze.
Bitumen penetrates and fills all the pores of concrete, preventing moisture from entering it. Will last 5 years - a relatively long time. Then it will begin to collapse and crack, letting water into the concrete.
To extend the service life of coating waterproofing, bitumen-polymer mastics can be used, they are devoid of the disadvantages of pure bitumen and are more durable. The market can offer both hot and cold applied mastics, as well as polymer solutions that have a rigid or liquid consistency. The methods of applying such materials can be different: using a roller, spatula, float or sprayer.
Pasting waterproofing of the foundation with rolled materials
Roll waterproofing materials can be used both separately and in addition to the coating method.
The most common and relatively cheap material for gluing insulation is roofing material. Before fixing it on the foundation surface, it must be treated with a bituminous primer or mastic, as in the previous method.
Then we heat the roofing material sheets with a gas burner and apply it to the vertical surface of the foundation with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. This method is called fusing. But it is also possible to fix the roofing material with the help of special adhesive mastics. From above we again cover with bituminous mastic and glue another layer of roofing material.
Important! Before fusing the roofing material, it is necessary to turn the edges of the horizontal waterproofing down and press down, fusing the roll material from above.
Instead of roofing material, you can use more modern roll materials: TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Rubitex, Hydrostekloizol, Technoelast or others. Their polymer base is polyester, which increases elasticity, wear resistance and improves performance. Despite the higher price compared to roofing material, these materials are recommended to be used for foundation waterproofing. But they will not be able to provide sufficient coating strength without mastic treatment, since they do not penetrate into the pores.
Instead of pasting waterproofing, you can use liquid rubber, which has good adhesion to the base, is durable and non-flammable. And most importantly, the surface is seamless, which provides better protection. If the waterproofing of the foundation is done manually, on your own, then one-component liquid rubber, for example, Elastopaz or Elastomiks, will do.
Material consumption per 1 m2 is 3 - 3.5 kg.
Elastopaz applied in layers, in two layers, drying will take at least 24 hours at a temperature of +20 °C. Sold in buckets of 18 kg, cheaper than Elastomiks. If the bucket is not completely used up, it can be sealed tightly and used later.
Elastomics applied in one layer, drying will take no more than 2 hours at a temperature of +15 ° C. Sold in buckets of 10 kg, more expensive than Elastopaz. If the bucket with Elastomix is not completely used, the mixture cannot be stored, as the adsorbent-activator, which is added to the mixture before use, will cause the contents of the bucket to turn into rubber within 2 hours.
Which of the materials to choose depends on the preferences of the owner and the time frame for execution. Before applying liquid rubber, the surface must be dedusted and treated with a primer. After an hour, apply liquid rubber with a roller, spatula or brush according to the instructions on the package.
A surface treated with liquid rubber may require protection from the elements if the backfill contains rocks or debris. In this case, the foundation must be covered with geotextile or a pressure wall must be equipped.
Penetrating foundation waterproofing
Penetrating waterproofing is called materials, the substances of which are able to penetrate into the structure of concrete by 100 - 200 mm and crystallize inside. Hydrophobic crystals prevent water from penetrating into the concrete structure and raising it through the capillaries. Concrete corrosion is also prevented and its frost resistance is increased.
Materials such as "Penetron", "Aquatron-6" and "Hydrotex" refer to penetrating anti-capillary waterproofing, differ in penetration depth and application method. Most often, internal concrete surfaces of the foundation, basement or basement are processed with such materials.
Penetrating waterproofing is best applied to wet concrete. To do this, the surface is first cleaned of dust, and then thoroughly moistened. We apply the material in several layers. After it is absorbed, the outer film can be removed.
For leveling and at the same time waterproofing the vertical surface of the foundation, you can use special plaster mixtures with the addition of moisture-resistant components: hydro concrete, polymer concrete or asphalt mastics.
Plastering is carried out using the same technology as plastering walls on lighthouses. To prevent cracks from appearing for a long time, it is recommended to apply it in a hot way. After drying, the plaster layer must be protected by performing a clay lock and backfilling with clay.
Screen waterproofing of the foundation
In fact, this method is a modern replacement for a clay castle. To protect the foundation from aggressive pressure water, bentonite mats are used, which are based on clay. By the way, they can be used in addition to other methods of waterproofing. Clay mats are fixed to the treated foundation with dowels. They are laid with an overlap of 15 cm. Then a pressure wall made of concrete is installed next to it, which will serve as an obstacle that does not allow the mats to swell.
During operation, the paper component of the mats is destroyed, and the clay is pressed into the surface of the foundation, performing a protective function.
The clay castle is also designed to prevent pressure water from reaching the foundation. To do this, a trench of 0.6 m is dug around it. A layer of rubble is poured into the bottom. Then the bottom and wall of the trench are rammed with greasy clay in several layers with breaks for drying. The remaining space is covered with either gravel or clay, and a blind area is equipped on top.
During spring floods, clay will not let water through to the foundation, and the lower moisture will leave through a layer of rubble.
Foundation waterproofing is a responsible business. In this article, we have considered only the most common methods. If you decide to do all the work yourself, remember that the main thing for the success of the business is to choose the right materials and the necessary activities. Then the foundation will last a long time and will not require costly repairs.
Drainage of the land plot is the most important stage in the preparation of the territory for construction. The use of drainage pipes significantly speeds up and simplifies the installation of drainage systems. Drainage pipes are necessary to drain water with a high level of groundwater.
The foundation is the basis on which the future house is built. Ceilings, walls, interior decoration and communications have been putting heavy loads on it for many years. In order for years to become decades, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation, which reliably protects such structures from the harmful effects of dampness, groundwater and melt water.
Concrete structures are susceptible to such “causative agents” of fungal infections and corrosion. Concrete is not afraid of moisture. In addition, with the prolonged influence of water on concrete, its properties become much stronger, and this is confirmed by the conclusions of many research institutes. But it is worth remembering what components make up the concrete structures for the foundation.
Foundation pillows and concrete blocks are the most common material for building foundations for cottages and houses. Basically, new concrete products are an expensive pleasure, therefore, used products are often used after dismantling the foundations of structures and buildings. Their cost is much less (3-4 times).
Pillows and blocks consist of concrete and steel reinforcement exposed to water through pores and microcracks in the concrete. Water strengthens concrete for 30-50 years of the building's operational life, but during this time the reinforcement undergoes significant corrosion.
If you do not block the access of moisture to it, then concrete products finally lose their ability to withstand huge loads (a pillow or block will simply burst in places of less resistance or in a place where the reinforcement has rusted).
This also applies to new reinforced concrete products. They also require processing by special means and in accordance with certain rules.
Types of foundations for residential buildings
There are only a few common types of foundations:
- tape;
- bored and pile;
- columnar;
- monolithic foundation slab;
- fences for the foundations of buildings made of wood.
The type of foundation for each building is chosen individually, depending on several factors:
- soil category (depending on the density of its components - chernozem, sand, clay);
- depth of soil freezing in winter;
- depth of groundwater.
Waterproofing materials
For waterproofing the foundation, materials are presented in a wide range, but you can choose from the most popular and affordable options:
- polymeric and;
- coating waterproofing;
- rolled or pasted waterproofing based on bituminous materials and synthetic or paper bases.
As well as plaster waterproofing based on cement polymer solutions.
Waterproofing Options
There are 2 methods to protect the foundation from water:
- creation of a drainage system around the residential building;
- protection of foundation elements with waterproofing materials.
The foundation must be protected from the harmful effects of moisture.
Consideration should be given to options for foundation waterproofing and the materials used for such purposes. In the process of waterproofing strip or prefabricated foundations for residential buildings, a set of measures is carried out that are associated with the application of waterproofing materials to structural elements.
Horizontal waterproofing of foundations and basements is performed in 2 levels. As a rule, this is done on the top or bottom of the basement floor slab. The surface of the floor slabs before waterproofing the foundation is cleaned of dust and debris, and the joints of the walls and slabs are well sealed with cement mortar.
When the solution dries, then roll-up adhesive waterproofing is glued to the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe plates. A gas burner is used to perform waterproofing of the foundation with guided materials. But on sale there are also self-adhesive materials for waterproofing. The protective film is simply removed from them and tightly pressed against the insulated surface.
Important! Such materials are more expensive, but in quality they are no worse than guided roll materials.
The disadvantage of glued and built-up materials in the manufacture of a foundation waterproofing device is that the joints may not provide the necessary sealing.
Vertical waterproofing is done on the walls of the basement. It also prevents moisture and fungus from penetrating the concrete blocks. Basically, it is carried out with coating materials based on polymeric materials and bitumen.
The coating waterproofing of monolithic and prefabricated foundations is carried out using liquid compositions. Bituminous mastics can be diluted with gasoline and applied with a simple brush to concrete blocks. It is important that the consistency of the liquid allows filling all small cracks and pores.
It is recommended to apply in 2 layers. In this case, the first layer hardens in 4-6 hours, and the final coating should have a thickness of at least 1.5-2 millimeters.
In winter, waterproofing needs high attention to the use of frost-resistant additives and the quality of applying insulation materials to foundation blocks, especially to their joints.
When performing waterproofing of foundation slabs, special care is required, because it is closer to groundwater. Here, filtration waterproofing is needed, which is performed with a bituminous solution before laying it in the pit.
If the groundwater is not close to the foundation of the house, then you can limit yourself to processing the foundation blocks with the help of primers - this is a liquid solution of gasoline and bitumen.
Plaster waterproofing of foundation walls is based on the use of cement-containing mortars with the inclusion of polymerizing components. After mixing with water, they become a composition that penetrates into the pores and cracks of concrete blocks and after a while increase in size with filling all the voids.
Particular attention is paid to sealing the joints between the pillows and the foundation blocks.
Important! You can not use the usual plaster mixture of cement and sand. It is not intended for waterproofing.
Vertical and horizontal waterproofing of slab foundations must be joined without gaps, because this will break the seal. The drainage system is a network of storm drains and drains that carry wastewater to a distance from which it cannot affect the foundation structures.
Proper protection of the basement from groundwater and precipitation is a key condition that determines the durability and safety of any building. In private houses that have been in operation for a long time, the waterproofing of the cellar from the inside can be done by a home craftsman at any time.
Self-waterproofing - what to consider?
Experts say that the issues of protecting the cellar (underground, basement, basement floor) of private housing construction must be addressed comprehensively at the stage of housing construction. Then problems with groundwater from the owner of the house are extremely rare. But not always during the construction of a residential building, the standards of its proper waterproofing are observed. Over time, this leads to flooding of the cellars, the appearance of constant dampness and mold in them, which causes the destruction of the structural elements of the foundation. It is impossible to put up with such a state of affairs, because living in a damp house is unrealistic.
Now the isolation of cellars is carried out in different ways, using both modern and well-known materials. When doing such work with your own hands, you should pay attention to the following problem areas of the basement spaces:
- Working seams. They are understood as connections formed at the construction sites of the formwork and during the concreting of basements.
- Joints between ceiling and floor surfaces with wall surfaces.
- Faults and gaps, the appearance of which is due to shrinkage of the house.
- Plots for laying engineering communications (sewerage, water supply, and so on).
Waterproofing can be horizontal and vertical. The first is performed if the base of the cellar is at the level of available water (groundwater). This protection is by gender. It eliminates the risk of raising soil water into the cellar and the penetration of capillary moisture into it. Note what needs to be done in any case. Even if right now there is no real need for it. The situation can change very quickly due to increased rainfall, changes in the land, leading to a rise in the level of water occurrence, and other reasons.
Vertical moisture protection is recommended for cellars that do not have an equipped drainage system. It is also indispensable if the walls of the basement coincide with the existing level of soil water. In most cases, vertical insulation is done in conjunction with horizontal insulation. In this case, the effectiveness of subfloor protection is significantly increased.
According to the level of moisture impact on the structural elements of the basement, hydroprotection is usually divided into:
- anticapillary;
- non-pressure;
- anti-pressure.
Anti-capillary insulation is designed to protect the room from moisture and dampness that enter it through the pores of the materials from which the building was built. Non-pressure is used in heavy rains, spring floods, floods. And the anti-pressure one is needed in the absence of drainage, when the level of soil water rises to 10 m. Its construction involves the creation of a single reliable barrier. The anti-pressure system works due to water pressure, which literally presses the used waterproofing into the surface. Such protection is arranged outside. From the inside of the basement it is not used.
Traditional insulation materials – proven but short-lived
The selection of suitable waterproofing products for basements is not an easy matter. You can't go wrong here. Until recently, do-it-yourself subfloor protection was carried out exclusively with the help of coating (it is also called painting) or welded insulation. These traditional materials have proven their effectiveness. They are inexpensive, have certain advantages. But they also have many shortcomings. The main one is that even with a relatively weak pressure of water, the welded and coating insulations swell and begin to move away from the surface in layers. As a result, there is a need for the installation of new materials, since the old ones cease to fulfill their task.
Coating waterproofing is a multicomponent cement-polymer composition. He can be:
- hard (is a special mixture in dry form);
- flexible (dry component plus a special polymer-based emulsion).
The price of such materials is low. They are easy to use. All work is done quickly, and the help of specialists for home craftsmen is not needed. Coating mastics are applied to cleaned wet walls with a spatula, a paint roller, or an ordinary brush.
Surfacing products have similar properties. They are produced in the form of rolls, made on a polymer or bitumen basis. The most famous insulators of this type are hydroisol and roofing material, popular among domestic consumers. They are either fixed on an adhesive mastic, or fused. Disadvantages of roll materials:
- short duration of operation;
- exposure to fungi, mold;
- high brittleness at low temperatures, leading to the destruction of the protective material.
Nowadays, polymer and bituminous products are used less and less. Consumers prefer more modern insulators. About them further.
Modern moisture protectors - penetrating and membrane
The waterproofing used in recent years is devoid of many of the disadvantages of traditional materials. The choice of modern means to prevent moisture from entering the basement is carried out taking into account:
- purpose of the underground;
- the presence of a drainage system around the foundation;
- rainfall intensity in the region and groundwater levels;
- foundation type and material.
The new generation of materials for waterproofing basements usually include penetrating and membrane insulation, as well as liquid glass and rubber. Let's consider them in more detail. Penetrating waterproofing is characterized by a long service life, ease of application, easy, fast and deep (up to 0.6 m) penetration into the concrete structure while maintaining the vapor transmission potential of the latter. It eliminates the risk of mechanical damage to the treated surface, increases the resistance of concrete to negative temperatures, while increasing its moisture protection capabilities.
In the process of application, penetrating compounds fill the structures to be protected, after which they crystallize due to the presence of special reagents in them - penetrates. The functions of these are usually performed by the following compounds and elements - alkali metal carbonates, aluminum oxide, natural silica.
Penetrating compositions are ideal for protecting basements from the inside. The technology of their use is simple. First, we clean the surface, degrease it. These operations provide high-quality opening of concrete pores. Some experts advise additionally brushing the base with a metal brush to make the surface rougher. Then the mixture for insulation will penetrate into it in a larger amount.
- 1. Mix dry insulation with water. The proportions of the components of the solution are indicated in the instructions for a particular composition.
- 2. We moisten the surface that is planned to be protected from moisture.
- 3. We impose a diluted composition on all existing joints, seams and corners, and then on flat areas of the base.
- 4. We wait 2-3 hours, re-apply the solution.
- 5. For 2–4 days after the completed treatment, we slightly moisten the insulated structures so that the protective solution hardens evenly in all its areas.
A variety of penetrating compounds for protection against moisture is injection insulation. It has the consistency of a flowing gel, which includes polyurethane, acrylate, microcement or epoxy mastic. Such a composition is introduced into holes prepared in advance. The procedure is performed with a special tool and using a rather complex technology. For this reason, injection insulation, despite its obvious advantages (the possibility of processing hard-to-reach areas, low gel consumption, no need for base preparation), is not used by self-taught masters.
Membrane waterproofing is an improved version of rolled protection with higher durability and efficiency of application. Membranes can be applied to any surface. Such products are able to attach tightly even to wet walls. Visually, the membrane for internal moisture protection looks like a canvas on which there are cone-shaped spikes. Their task is to divert water.
Membrane sheets are fixed on the walls of the cellar with dowels. Moreover, these hardware should be mounted only on top of the insulator. And all its remaining ends are subsequently fixed by elements of a horizontal moisture protection system, without which the membranes cannot be installed. This fact is considered one of the shortcomings of the described moisture protectors.
Glass and rubber in liquid form - water will not penetrate the basement!
Liquid glass is a mixture of soda, sand and sodium silicate in powder form. Before use, it is dissolved with water in certain proportions (the specific amount of liquid added is specified by the manufacturer). The technology of using liquid glass is elementary - we clean the bases that need to be protected from moisture, cover all gaps, joints, corners and other areas with a diluted composition. We wait a couple of hours and enjoy the high-quality waterproofing.
Liquid glass is allowed to process only concrete surfaces! Constructions made of other materials are not compatible with this hydraulic protector.
We add that liquid glass has a unique maintainability (if necessary, you can dismantle part of the waterproofing and mount a new protection in its place) and excellent anti-corrosion characteristics. The only bad moment. The liquid composition after dilution sets quickly enough and becomes unsuitable for use. Therefore, it should be mixed in small portions. And use them right away.
Liquid rubber is made from a variety of polymer elements and bitumen. It guarantees a high-quality moisture barrier both inside the basement and outside. Rubber waterproofing coatings have the following advantages:
- complete absence of decay;
- uniquely high adhesion to the base;
- durability;
- affordable cost;
- resistance to water pressure, ultraviolet radiation and temperature extremes;
- maintainability;
- fire safety.
Processing basements with liquid rubber is easy to do yourself. We remove fungi, dirt, dust from the surfaces. We level the bases that we want to process (the operation is optional, but it will reduce the consumption of insulating material), we apply a primer to them. There is a nuance here. First you need to treat the existing gaps and corners with soil. Then cover the surface with a fabric cloth (sold in construction stores). And after that, apply the primer again, covering the entire base with it.
After 4 hours, we can proceed to the waterproofing of the underground with liquid rubber. On the walls of the basement, it is distributed with a roller. You can rent a special installation for spraying liquid rubber. Then the work will go much faster. If you are protecting an ordinary cellar in a private house from water, there is, of course, no real need to use this installation. The time for complete solidification of liquid rubber is several hours. As a result, a special film is formed on the treated surfaces, through which not a single drop of water can penetrate. The protective coating can be finished with almost all known decorative materials.
Expert advice - we will make waterproofing without mistakes!
From a review of materials for protecting basements from groundwater, it can be seen that home craftsmen cannot have any particular difficulties in performing insulation. The technologies for using waterproofers are simple and straightforward. But if you want to do everything as correctly as possible, pay attention to the recommendations below. First of all, we need to take care of the high-quality cleaning of surfaces that will be protected from moisture, and the preparation of the cellar for the planned events:
- 1. We examine the basement. We will find the areas where water penetrates into it, remember them, so that later we can pay special attention to problem areas.
- 2. We pump out water from the underground, if any. Some insulating materials may be used in wet conditions. But none of them fit into the water.
- 3. We remove falling parts from the bases, remove dirt, get rid of dust. Shtrobim found gaps. Their expansion will allow us to make waterproofing more efficiently. We prime and fill the grooved areas with plaster or concrete mortar.
- 4. We process the surfaces with soil. And we go through problem areas twice. Bituminous mastics and penetrating insulation can be mounted on poorly dried walls. All other materials require completely dry surfaces.
- 5. In new houses, before starting waterproofing work from the inside, it is advisable to strengthen the walls of the basement with geotextile or reinforcing fabric. These products will securely hold the protective material when the newly erected building begins to sag. These products are also mounted in cases where the insulation is performed in two layers. In such situations, reinforcing materials are placed between the layers of waterproofing materials used.
It is necessary to pour a layer of crushed stone on the earthen floor in the basement, tamp it down and cover it with cement mortar. After drying, it is allowed to proceed with the insulation of the floor base. Do not lay protective products directly on the ground. There will be no sense from them.
And the last. Any measures aimed at protecting the basement from water will be incomplete if you do not equip it with an efficiently functioning ventilation system. It can be artificial or natural. The first is constructed using dehumidifiers and fans mounted around the perimeter of the cellar. The second is the simplest exhaust structure that circulates air around the basement.
Artificial private housing construction is rarely equipped. In most cases, there is no need for it. And any self-taught master will make a natural one in a couple of hours. You just need to make a lock hole in the ceiling of the cellar and connect it to a pipe mounted outside the building. Such a simple structure will work in conjunction with hydroprotection. Don't forget to cover the outer pipe with a cap to keep raindrops out of the basement.
